Battery adapter for Rolleiflex SLX, 6006 (USB-C battery)

The battery adapter v2 is designed for the Rolleiflex 6000 series. Which of the three fuses goes into your camera depends on the model:

Not suitable for the 6008 series (6008, 6008 Professional, 6008 Professional SRC 1000, 6008 i, 6008 i2, 6008 E, 6008 AF, 6008 Integral, 6008 Integral 2). The 6008 models draw such strong current peaks that the protection in the batteries shuts off even when the cells are full, so this version does not run reliably on them. A new version for the 6008 is in the works, and you can get notified through the waiting list for the 6008 adapter. If you have a 6008 and received this adapter, please get in touch with us.

Not tested by us: Rolleiflex 6001 RCC. Its electronics read the voltage of the NiCd battery and have had trouble recognising lithium-ion cells in the past. We cannot guarantee that the new circuit board solves this. Write to us before you order. We'll discuss the chances of success with you, and if it doesn't work, we'll take the adapter back as a goodwill gesture.

Limit for fast shooting sequences: On a 6006 in continuous mode at 1/500 s, the battery protection briefly cut the power once the batteries were down to about half charge. On stiff-running cameras this can happen sooner, so recharge early.

Our battery list shows more Rollei models with battery type RFX6000 and the complete RFX6000 camera list.

Both surfaces are technically identical, and only the look differs: the outer side of the cage becomes part of the left side panel of your Rollei.

• Ribbed: fine grooves, looks most consistent on the 6006.
• Smooth: flat, usually the right choice for the SLX, 6001, 6002 and 6003, whose original battery sits flush and flat.

Not sure? Send us a photo of the left side of your camera body.

Other 14500 rechargeable batteries with USB-C and at least 3 A continuous current will also work technically, but have not been tested by us. Retailers for the NL1411R in Germany, the EU, the UK and the USA are listed in the guide in the section “Shipping and international sourcing”.

• Cage material: engineering plastic
• Circuit board: v2 high-current PCB with gold-plated contacts
• Battery cells (set with batteries): 3× Nitecore NL1411R 14500 lithium-ion, 3.6V nominal, 1100mAh, 3 A continuous discharge, 7 A short-term (surge)
• Energy per pack: approx. 12 Wh (complies with UN3481 Section II)
• Charging port: USB-C directly on each cell, integrated protection circuit
• Fuses: Set of 0.8A / 1.0A / 1.25A (slow-blow glass fuse, IEC 60127), storage box
• Colour: Black
• SKU: 1500

As a replacement for the Rolleiflex 6000 battery, the three cells briefly deliver 12.6 V when fully charged, slightly more than the old 9.6 V NiCd. We have tested the adapter extensively and consider the electronics of the 6000 series to be designed for it. With a camera that is over 30 years old and has not been serviced, a defect can still never be entirely ruled out; we accept no liability for damage to the camera or its electronics, and the 30-day money-back guarantee applies to the adapter. For more on the voltage (Rollei's own Power Interface was specified for 12 to 18 V), our battery comparison and the causes of electronics damage, see our guide to the Rolleiflex 6000 battery problem.

1. Insert the fuse: Using the table under “Compatibility”, choose the right one of the 3 included fuses and insert it yourself.
2. Charge the batteries: Always charge outside the cage, all 3 cells together on the USB charging splitter, each via its own USB-C port. The status LED shows whether the cell is charging or full. Only insert the cells once all three are full, and treat them as a fixed set that you always charge together and insert together. If one cell is lower than the others, it will be the first to run empty. The camera then becomes sluggish or stops, even though the other two still have charge. If the pauses between shots get long, stop and recharge all three.
3. Insert the cells: Place the 3 cells in the cage according to the plus and minus markings. Each cell must sit fully in its slot, none may stick out at the side. The snap hook clicks audibly into place for a firm fit without tools.
4. Into the camera: Slide the cage into the battery compartment like the original battery until it sits properly. Done, the camera is ready to use. If the cage jams, don't push it in any further: if forced in, it may sit so tightly that it can hardly be removed again. Pull it out, check that all cells sit fully in their slots, and send us a photo if it still jams after that.

“What should I do if the camera doesn't respond or stops after a few shots?”

Go through these three points in order:

• Are all three cells full? Charge them together until each status LED shows a full charge. From about half charge, the camera can already cut out at fast shutter speeds and only fire again after switching it off and on. If one cell is lower than the others, the camera becomes sluggish or stops.
• Is the correct fuse inserted (see the table under “Compatibility”), and is its filament still unbroken?
• Are the contacts clean, both on the cage and in the battery compartment?

If the camera still doesn't work after that, the cause may be the camera itself, for example aged capacitors or gummed-up mechanics. In that case, write to us with your camera model and the fuse you are using, and we'll look for the cause with you. The adapter is covered by the 30-day money-back guarantee.

“What should I do if the fuse blows during continuous shooting (Continuous mode)?”

If the correct fuse (see the compatibility table above) blows during continuous shooting, this is almost always a sign of gummed-up grease inside the camera: the focus motor, mirror and shutter then draw considerably more current than intended by the factory. Recommendation: plan a service (CLA) at a specialised workshop such as Wiese Fototechnik; this also includes checking the ageing capacitors on the camera board, the most common real cause of failure in the 6000 series.

First, take a look at the installed fuse. If you previously had a lower rating in there, the filament may have broken long ago. That then looks like a power problem, but is just a blown fuse. Hold it up to the light: a continuous filament means it is fine.

As a temporary solution at your own risk, you can use the next higher fuse rating (e.g. 1.0A instead of 0.8A on an SLX). This slightly reduces the level of protection: in the event of a fault, the fuse blows later, which in the worst case can damage the camera board. Acceptable until the service appointment, not recommended as a permanent solution.