Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide

The Minox 35 is the smallest full-frame 35mm camera of its time: a compact Makrolon body, weighing around 190g. Depending on the model, different batteries are required, and for some variants the original cell is no longer available. This guide explains which model is right for you and how to keep the camera alive.

Anyone who knows me knows that the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favorite cameras. At Ausgeknipst, we design parts for dozens of camera systems. But if I’m honest, there’s one camera I keep putting in my bag whenever I’m out privately. It’s neither a Leica nor a Nikon. It’s my beat-up Minox 35 GT (on the right in the picture).

Why? Because it’s engineering in pocket-sized form. In 1974, Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photography world with it: a full-frame 35mm camera that was smaller than many half-frame cameras and, at just under 190g, almost half the weight and noticeably flatter in a bag than the already very popular Rollei 35. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared with the more popular Rollei 35 is that the lens disappears behind a cover when the camera isn’t in use, protecting it in your bag, and because the body is made of fiberglass-reinforced Makrolon, it weighs almost nothing.

But the Minox 35 could only be made so small because it contains a lot of electronics for its time, which unfortunately also makes it fairly prone to faults. Of the 100+ Minox 35 cameras that have passed through my hands since Ausgeknipst was founded, probably around 50% were broken (we were able to repair about 30% of them, because usually all that’s needed is to clean the shutter magnet).

But that comes later. First, you need to choose one, and that’s what this guide is for: helping you find the right model and keep it alive.

Part 1: The Minox Family Tree (Which one should I buy?)

There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here’s an overview to help you find your way through the jungle of designations.

1. The Classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)

These are the models with the characteristic sloping top and the needle in the viewfinder.

Minox 35 EL (1974): The original. Aperture-priority autoexposure (you choose the aperture, the camera chooses the shutter speed). Historically important, but still technically rough (no backlight switch, no self-timer).

Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. It got a backlight switch (“2x”) that doubles the exposure. An important feature!

Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favorite. It has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8. Sharp, contrasty, and full of character.

Minox 35 PL (1982): The “Program” version. Fully automatic for people who do not want to think about apertures. Good for snapshots, but offers less creative control.

Warning about the power supply: These models originally ran on the PX27 mercury battery (5.6V). It is no longer available.

The solution: Minox electronics use a bridge circuit, making them relatively tolerant of voltage variations. The modern 6V supplied by four LR44 or SR44 button cells is not a problem electrically. The essential component is the battery adapter (sleeve). The button cells are too small and would not make contact without an adapter, causing a short circuit. Our PX27 Adapter holds the modern button cells, connects them correctly, and ensures that your Minox receives reliable power again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27, but it has less capacity than the solution with four button cells and is often available only from specialist shops.

You can find all information about batteries and instruction manuals here: Minox 35 Battery & Manual Overview

2. The “Automatic Models” (ML, MB)

From 1985 onward, the design became somewhat more angular (“brick shape”).

Minox 35 ML: Considered the best model by many. It offers both program automation AND aperture priority. Instead of a needle, it has LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an “Exposure Lock” (exposure memory), which is extremely useful in difficult lighting.

Minox 35 MB: Essentially an ML, but without program automation. Aperture priority only.

Advantage of this series: They use the PX28 battery (6V) from the factory. Since it is harder to find nowadays than standard button cells, you need our PX28 Adapter. This passive adapter serves as a sleeve, allowing you to use four individual, inexpensive LR44 or SR44 button cells.

3. The Modern Models (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)

At the end of the 1980s, there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called “MC Minoxar” (multicoating) and often had a built-in skylight filter.

Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very advanced. The minimum focusing distance was reduced to 70 cm (instead of 90 cm). More robust internal components (the GT-S is a modified GT-E with automatic DX code detection).

Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with a titanium-anodized aluminum shell. More of a display piece, but beautiful (also available as a gold-plated collector’s version; see the title image).

Battery note: The GT-E and GT-S models have a modified battery compartment and use two CR 1/3 N lithium batteries as standard (3V each = 6V). No adapter is needed here. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28 and requires our PX28 adapter.

Part 2: Buying guide: Minox problems

If you see a used Minox 35 at a flea market or on eBay, you need to check two things. Otherwise, you’ll end up buying electronic scrap.

The “click” test (shutter)

The biggest problem with the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits unused for a long time, the magnets gum up or the electronics give out.

The test: Insert the battery, advance the film, and press the shutter release. You’ll hear a “click.” But open the back and look through the lens toward the light. Do the blades really open? Often you hear a click (the shutter magnet), but the shutter stays closed. We used to repair this frequently, but it’s fiddly.

DIY repair tip: For those of you with technical skills who want to try cleaning the shutter magnet yourselves, we’ve included the link to the video guide right here: YouTube video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.

The ISO dial of death

On many GTs and GLs, the ISO dial markings on the bottom have simply worn off. You no longer know whether ISO 100 or 400 is set. It’s annoying, but not a total loss.

The solution: We make a replacement ISO dial plate with engraved numbers rather than merely printed ones. Stick it on once and forget about it.

The lost battery cap

A classic. These little things are tiny and missing from 30% of used cameras. Without the cap, there is no electrical circuit. No circuit, no shutter release. If yours is missing: We offer replacement caps made from conductive filament to ensure reliable electrical contact.

 

Important operating instructions

Three quirks every Minox beginner needs to know before thinking their camera is broken:

• Double-stroke film advance: On the Minox 35, the film advance lever must be operated twice to fully cock the shutter. The camera will not fire after only one stroke. This is not a defect but part of the design.
• Front cover = main switch: The electronics only receive power when the front cover is opened completely and clicks into place. Even at 99%, the camera will not fire. Make sure you hear a distinct click when opening it.
• SR44 instead of LR44: If you use one of our adapters with button cells, be sure to use SR44 (silver oxide) instead of LR44 (alkaline). Alkaline cells continuously lose voltage, which eventually leads to incorrect exposures in the Minox due to its lack of true voltage regulation. SR44 cells maintain a constant voltage of 1.55 V until the end.

Part 3: How to take better pictures (Zone Focus!)

The Minox 35 isn't a point & shoot with autofocus (except for the ugly late AF models we're not talking about here). It uses zone focusing.

You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It isn't.

• At f/8 and a setting of 3 meters, almost everything from 2 m to 5 m will be sharp.
• For landscapes: infinity.
• For street photography: f/8, pre-focus at 3 meters (“snap focus”), and simply press the shutter when the subject is in the zone.

Since the shutter is almost silent, the Minox is the ultimate ninja camera for street photography.

Our conclusion & Vladi's recommendation

Do you still need a Minox 35 today? Yes. There are hardly any cameras that deliver so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT, simply because I always had it with me when the large SLR was too heavy.

My recommendation for buyers:

The best value: The Minox 35 GT. The best balance of features and availability.

The professional tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 0.7 m minimum focusing distance). The MDC is the only one with a titanium-anodized aluminum body: an indestructible collector's item (but expensive!). The ML does have LEDs in the viewfinder, but it isn't necessarily better in quality than a well-preserved GT.

If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in working order, feel free to visit our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.

Good light! Yours, Vladi

Useful links from the article:

• PX27 battery adapter (for EL, GL, GT, PL)
• PX28 adapter (for ML, MB, MDC)
• Replacement ISO dial plate
• Replacement battery cover
• Filter adapter (for using filters)
• Lens hood