Light seal set for analog SLR cameras

• Fits all 35mm SLR cameras: 517 compatible models from 30 manufacturers: Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Olympus, Pentax, Yashica and many more. Check your model in the compatibility list.
• Complete tool set for DIY replacement: Self-adhesive light-seal strips in 4 widths, mirror bumper foam, tweezers with scraper, cotton swabs, shutter-curtain protector and instructions with a QR code linking to the video. All you also need is isopropanol and scissors.
• Easy to do even without prior experience: The instructions and step-by-step video guide you through every step, so you can replace the seals even if you have never opened a camera before.
• More material than a pre-cut kit: Universal strips to cut to size, enough for 1–2 or 2–3 cameras depending on the variant, more robust and flexible than contour-cut seals, which can easily tear at the cut edges. Plenty of spare material in case you make a mistake on a tricky section.
• Mirror bumper included: This often-overlooked wear part is essential: without a functioning bumper, the mirror hits the stop hard every time you take a picture, causing vibrations that reduce sharpness.

Compatibility

Fits all analog 35mm SLR cameras with standard seal channels. The most common models:

• Canon: AE-1, AE-1 Program, A-1, AT-1, AV-1, F-1, FTb, EF, TX, TLb, EX Auto
• Nikon: FM, FM2, FM2n, FE, FE2, FA, FG, FG-20, EM, F2, F3, Nikkormat FTn/FT2/EL
• Minolta: SRT 101/102/303, X-700, X-500, X-300, X-370, X-570, XD-7, XG-1, XG-2, XG-M, XG-9
• Olympus: OM-1, OM-1n, OM-2, OM-2n, OM-2SP, OM-3, OM-4, OM-10, OM-20, OM-30, OM-40
• Pentax: K1000, ME, ME Super, MX, MV, MG, KM, KX, K2, Spotmatic, LX, Super A, P30
• Yashica: FR, FR-I, FR-II, FX-3, FX-3 Super 2000, FX-7, FX-D, TL Electro, Electro AX
• Contax: RTS, RTS II, 137 MA, 137 MD, 139 Quartz, 159 MM, S2, ST, Aria, RX
• Ricoh: XR-7, XR-P, KR-5, KR-5 Super, KR-10, XR-500, XR-2, TLS 401
• Konica: Autoreflex T3, T4, TC, FS-1, FC-1, FT-1, Acom-1, TC-X
• Praktica: MTL 3, MTL 5, MTL 5B, B200, BCA, BC1, BX20, Super TL, LLC, VLC
• Fujica: ST605, ST605n, ST701, ST705, ST801, STX-1, STX-2, AX-5
• Chinon: CE-4, CE-5, CM-3, CM-4, CM-5, CM-7, CP-7
• Cosina: CT-1, CT-1 Super, CT-1A, CT-7, CT-10, CT-20
• Mamiya: MSX 500, DSX 1000, ZE, ZE-2, ZE-X, ZM
• Petri: FT, FT II, FT EE, FTE, FA-1, MF-1, GX-1
• Topcon: RE Super, Super D, Unirex, IC-1 Auto
• Miranda: Sensorex, Sensorex II, Sensorex EE, dx-3, RE-II
• Rollei: SL35, SL35M, SL35E, SL35ME
• Vivitar: V3800N, V4000, 220/SL, 450/SLD
• Zenit: E, EM, ET, TTL, 11, 12, 122

Also fits many rangefinder cameras (e.g. Canonet QL17, Olympus XA), TLRs and point-and-shoot cameras with a rear-door seal. If your camera has a foam seal in the rear door, this kit will work.

View the complete compatibility list: 517 models from 30 manufacturers

What's included

• For 1–2 cameras:
  • 1x sheet of pre-cut light-seal strips (self-adhesive, 1 mm thick, 4 widths)
  • 1x mirror bumper (self-adhesive strip, 2 mm thick)
  • 1x pair of tweezers with scraper on the back end
  • 4x cotton swabs
  • 1x shutter-curtain protector (removes without leaving residue)
  • 1x set of instructions (DE/EN)
• For 2–3 cameras:
  • 2x sheets of pre-cut light-seal strips (self-adhesive, 1 mm thick, 4 widths)
  • 2x mirror bumpers (self-adhesive strips, 2 mm thick)
  • 2x pairs of tweezers with scraper on the back end
  • 8x cotton swabs
  • 2x shutter-curtain protectors (remove without leaving residue)
  • 2x sets of instructions (DE/EN)
• With film-window seal (Leica R, Contax, Ricoh):
  • 1x sheet of pre-cut light-seal strips (self-adhesive, 1 mm thick, 4 widths)
  • 1x mirror bumper (self-adhesive strip, 2 mm thick)
  • 1x pair of tweezers with scraper on the back end
  • 4x cotton swabs
  • 1x shutter-curtain protector (removes without leaving residue)
  • 1x set of instructions (DE/EN)
  • 2x seals for the film viewing window in the rear door (self-adhesive)

Technical details

• Material: Special light-seal foam (self-adhesive)
• Widths: 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm strips
• Thickness: 1 mm (light-seal strips), 2 mm (mirror bumper)
• Type: Universal strips (cut to the required length)
• Quantity: Depending on the variant, enough for approx. 1–2 or 2–3 cameras

Description

The light seals in your analog camera break down over the years into a sticky, crumbly mess. In almost every camera from the 1960s to the 1980s, the original sealing foam is worn out after 20–40 years. The consequences are twofold: light enters through the leaks and causes bright streaks or spots on your photos. At the same time, the sticky residue gets into the mechanism, onto the mirror, the shutter curtain and the film guide.

The vast majority of cameras available on the used market are sold with defective light seals. Unless the seller explicitly mentions otherwise, you can assume that the seals need to be replaced. Apart from isopropanol and scissors, this kit contains everything you need for a DIY replacement. You can buy isopropanol online as rubbing alcohol (IPA) or at a pharmacy.

Practical tips

• Remove the rear door: On most 35mm SLRs (Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-1, Pentax ME), the rear door can be removed without tools by pulling out the hinge pin. Working on a detached door is much easier.
• Protect the shutter: Before you start, cover the shutter curtain with the included shutter-curtain protector. The curtain is extremely delicate; never touch it with tools or your fingers.
• Avoid the frame-counter opening: There is a small opening for resetting the frame counter on the rear door, usually at the top right. No isopropanol or sealing material must get into it.
• Focusing screen: no alcohol. Isopropanol will permanently damage the focusing screen. When replacing the mirror bumper, place a trimmed Post-it over the mirror and focusing screen to catch crumbs.
• Final cleaning: Clean the outside of the body with a slightly damp microfiber cloth and a drop of dish soap. Do not let water enter the body seams.

Frequently asked questions

“Why use universal strips instead of pre-cut seals?”

Contour-cut seals may sound precise, but they have disadvantages in practice: the narrow strips for the rear-door edge can easily tear at the cut edges, and if you make a mistake, the entire kit is used up. Universal strips are more robust, can be flexibly placed around every bend of the rear door and provide enough material for 1–2 or 2–3 cameras, depending on the variant. You can fit the straight strips into the narrow channel just as easily.

“I'm not handy—can I do this myself?”

Yes. Replacing the seals requires patience, but no special skill. We have resealed hundreds of cameras in our workshop and documented the method so that beginners can complete it on a quiet afternoon. Our step-by-step guide with photos and the accompanying video show every step.

“The self-adhesive strips stick to the tweezers instead of staying in the channel”

This is the most common source of frustration. Two solutions: First, peel off the backing film in 2–3 cm sections rather than all at once. Second, try the isopropanol trick from our community: lightly moisten the adhesive side with isopropanol. The adhesive will lose its grip for 1–2 minutes, allowing you to position the strip without stress. Once the alcohol evaporates, it will hold firmly.

“I can't get the strip into the really narrow grooves”

Glue-free alternative: Simply leave the backing film completely in place and press the strip into the channel without exposing the adhesive. The friction in the narrow groove will hold the foam securely in place. Several customers and we ourselves have used this method for years without any problems.

“Do I really need a new mirror bumper? Mine still looks okay”

If the bumper is even slightly crumbly: yes. Without a functioning bumper, the mirror hits the upper stop hard every time you take a picture. This causes noticeable vibrations during long exposures and accelerates wear on the mirror mechanism. The foam crumbs also land directly on the focusing screen and mirror.

In our video, we show the complete replacement step by step on a Pentax ME Super. The method works identically with Canon AE-1, Olympus OM-1, Minolta SRT and all other 35mm SLRs.

Watch the video: How to change light seals on a 35mm SLR (German subtitles)

You can find the detailed step-by-step guide with photos in our blog article: How to replace the light seals in your analog camera