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Protection for the open flash socket: keeps dust and moisture away from the contacts and helps prevent corrosion.
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Flush fit in the original socket: the cap sits level with the chrome ring, making the back look closed again.
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Replacement for the lost original cover: two caps in the set—one for the camera and one spare.
Compatibility
- Leica M1
- Leica M2
- Leica M3
- Leica MP (1956 model)
These models came from the factory with the larger Leitz flash socket. There are two cases in which the cap still will not fit:
- A retrofitted PC sync adapter is inserted in the socket. Pull it out, and the cap will fit.
- The camera was permanently converted in a workshop to the standardized PC socket. In that case, this cap will not fit; use a cover cap for PC sync sockets instead.
Not suitable for Leica M4, M4-2, M4-P, M5, M6, M7, or MP models from 2003 onward—these models came from the factory with the standardized PC socket.
Scope of delivery
2x cover caps for the flash socket
Technical details
- Material: engineering plastic
- Color: Black
- Diameter: 10.7 mm
- Fit: Leitz flash socket of the M1, M2, M3, and 1956 MP
Description
On the back of your Leica M3—and likewise on the M1 and M2—there are two flash sockets that this cover closes again: the X contact for electronic flash, marked with the lightning symbol, and the M contact for flashbulbs, marked with the lamp symbol. Without a cable connected, both remain open, allowing dust to collect in the recess and the internal contacts to corrode over the years. The cap closes the socket flush, stays securely in place on its own, and can be removed again at any time without tools.
Made in Germany. Two caps are included, so you have a spare on hand right away.
Is there a PC adapter in your socket?
M1, M2, and M3 cameras do not have a standardized PC socket; they have the larger-diameter Leitz socket instead—a standard PC flash cable will not fit. Anyone who still wants to use flash can insert a small adapter into the socket and usually leave it there permanently so it does not get lost. Many owners are unaware of this because the adapter was already in place when they bought the camera.
Here is how to identify it: a short metal cylinder, usually chrome-plated, protruding several millimeters beyond the back. There is fine knurling at the base, a gap is visible between the adapter and the camera’s surrounding ring, and a round hole for the flash plug is located in the center at the top. The free original socket, by contrast, is recessed: a chrome ring on the outside with a brass-colored sleeve behind it—nothing protrudes.
To remove it, pull the adapter straight out. If it is stuck after decades, gently twisting it back and forth can help; some versions are screwed in. Do not pry it out or use pliers on the chrome.
If nothing can be pulled out and the socket sits flush with the camera body, your camera was permanently converted to the standardized PC socket. This is a common workshop modification and not a fault with the camera—but this cap will not fit in that case.
