Rollei 35 Versions Compared: 2026 Buying Guide

Launched in 1966, the Rollei 35 was for many years the smallest full-frame 35mm camera in the world. The key variants are the basic Rollei 35, the fast SE with its Sonnar 2.8/40 mm and the more affordable B, whose selenium light meter needs no battery at all. Models designed for mercury batteries now need a substitute power source to run the light meter.

One of the best English-language articles on the Rollei 35 SE, with honest buying advice and real hands-on experience. Read the article.

Contents

1. Why the Rollei 35 almost never happened
2. Every variant compared side by side
3. Which lens is in which Rollei 35
4. Light meters and the battery problem
5. Zone focusing, film tips and common mistakes
6. What works differently on the Rollei 35
7. What to check when buying used
8. What is an inherited Rollei 35 worth, and how do you get it working again?
9. Ausgeknipst accessories for the Rollei 35

Why the Rollei 35 almost never happened

In 1962, Heinz Waaske sat in his office at Wirgin in Wiesbaden, working on a prototype nobody wanted. The idea: a fully fledged 35mm camera that would fit in a jacket pocket, with no compromise on image quality.

Waaske offered his design to Wirgin, then to Leitz, then to Kodak. None of them were interested. The camera was too small and too unconventional, they said, and the risk too great.

In January 1965, Waaske moved to Rollei in Braunschweig. Two months later, managing director Heinrich Peesel came across the prototype and immediately ordered it into series production. In October 1966, Rollei unveiled the camera at Photokina in Cologne. The Rollei 35 was the smallest full-frame 35mm camera in the world.

The clever bit of the design: the collapsible lens brings the camera's depth down to under 6 cm, and overall it takes up only a third of the volume of comparable 35mm cameras of its time. The shutter uses leaf blades instead of a larger cloth curtain. Aperture and shutter speed are set with dials on the front rather than on top of the body. Everything about this camera breaks with convention.

Over the next 30 years, more than two million Rollei 35s were made in a range of versions. The first series was built in Braunschweig; from 1971, Rollei moved production to Singapore. In 1981, Rollei went bankrupt. From 1990, the new owners built the revised Classic series in Braunschweig again.

Today, almost 60 years on, the Rollei 35 is one of the most sought-after film compacts around. And there are enough variants to get thoroughly lost. That's exactly why this article exists.

All variants side by side

The table below lists all the relevant Rollei 35 models. One thing to keep in mind: not every camera with “35” in its name belongs to the same family. The XF 35 is a completely different type of camera that just shares the name; more on that below the table. The “Rollei 35 AF”, launched in 2024, is not made by Rollei but by MiNT Camera (Hong Kong) under an official name license. The AF has a 35mm f/2.8 lens, LiDAR autofocus (rather than zone focusing), automatic exposure and a built-in flash. It's a modern compact camera and, both technically and historically, not a variant of the analog originals.

Quick picks: For photographers: Rollei 35SE or 35S. Both have the Sonnar, the best lens in the range. The SE also meters reliably and shows the reading right in the viewfinder.
Best value: Rollei 35T, the same image quality as the original, often for less money.
For collectors: Rollei 35 (Made in Germany) or 35 Classic (Titanium/Gold/Platinum editions).
On a budget: B35, inexpensive and no battery headaches, but with the simpler Triotar lens.

The XF 35 isn’t part of this family. The Rollei XF 35 is a rangefinder with program autoexposure and a fixed 40mm f/2.3 Sonnar. It has no collapsible lens and no manual exposure control. A good lens, but a completely different concept.

Which accessories fit which model?

Once you’ve settled on a model, the first thing you’ll usually need is a battery for the light meter. After that comes a lens cap, if the original one is missing, and a lens hood to keep stray light out. What fits depends on the lens and the meter. The Rollei 35, 35T, 35TE and B35 have a 24 mm filter thread, the 35S and 35SE a 30.5 mm one. The LED models also take a different battery from the CdS models with the needle on top.

Disclaimer: We sell some of the products mentioned here. Even so, this article is meant first and foremost as a helpful guide, not as a sales pitch.

Both lens hoods have a 40.5 mm filter thread on the front, so you don’t need hard-to-find 24 or 30.5 mm filters. There’s also a two-piece hard case that fits the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35TE and 35SE. On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S it also keeps the meter cell in the dark, so the battery doesn’t drain while the case is on. Note, though, that the case lid won’t close with a lens hood screwed on.

For the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35SE and 35TE, the battery adapter, lens cap, lens hood and hard case also come together in our accessory starter kit; all you need to do is pick your model.

Which lens is in which Rollei 35

When it comes to image quality, what really sets the Rollei 35 models apart is the lens. Three types of lens were fitted, all with a 40 mm focal length but fundamentally different designs. For a short time there was also a Tessar clone made by Schneider-Kreuznach.

Carl Zeiss Tessar 40mm f/3.5: the classic

Four elements in three groups. The Tessar design dates back to 1902, and in 1966 it was still one of the sharpest lens designs for the format. On the Rollei 35 it delivers crisp images from f/5.6 onwards; wide open it renders a little softer, as Tessars typically do.

In every Rollei 35 series, the Tessar remained only single-coated. Shooting straight into the light can therefore cause flare. A UV filter does protect the front element, but against light striking at an angle from outside the frame, a lens hood helps more: it keeps that light off the lens instead of putting yet another glass surface in front of it. For the Rollei 35, 35T, 35TE and B35, our lens hood with a 24 mm fitting is the one that fits.

Used in: Rollei 35 (original), 35T, 35TE

Carl Zeiss Sonnar 40mm f/2.8: the premium lens

Five elements in four groups. Roughly two-thirds of a stop faster than the Tessar, with visibly better contrast and pleasing bokeh wide open. Collectors and photographers alike regard the Sonnar as the better choice, and prices reflect that.

The Sonnar on the 35S and 35SE has a 30.5 mm filter thread, so the lens hood for the Tessar models won’t fit. The 35S and 35SE have their own lens hood with a 30.5 mm fitting.

The Sonnar was made at the joint Rollei/Zeiss plant in Singapore, under license from Carl Zeiss. Quality-wise, there’s no difference from German-made Zeiss lenses.

Used in: Rollei 35S, 35SE, 35 Classic

Schneider-Kreuznach S-Xenar 40mm f/3.5: the rare Tessar clone

Between 1972 and 1973, Carl Zeiss couldn’t supply enough Tessars to the new plant in Singapore, so Rollei temporarily bought in lenses from the German manufacturer Schneider-Kreuznach. Optically, the S-Xenar is almost identical to the Tessar (four elements in three groups), but because of its smaller production run (approx. 30,000) it’s considerably more sought after by collectors.

Triotar 40mm f/3.5: the entry-level lens

Three elements, triplet design. A simpler construction, cheaper to buy and lighter as well. Stopped down to f/8 or beyond (f/11, f/16) it’s perfectly usable, but wide open it’s noticeably softer than the Tessar and Sonnar. The Triotar was the budget option for Rollei’s entry-level models.

Used in: B35/35B, C35, 35LED

Tessar or Sonnar? In everyday shooting the difference is small, especially at f/8 and beyond. If you zone focus (and with the Rollei 35 there’s hardly any other way), you’ll rarely shoot wide open. The Sonnar’s advantage of roughly two-thirds of a stop matters for indoor shots and low light. For street photography in daylight, the Tessar is just as good.

Light meters and the battery problem

The Rollei 35 used three different light meter systems. Which one your camera has makes more difference in day-to-day shooting than the choice of lens.

CdS meter with needle display (35, 35T, 35S, Classic)

A cadmium sulfide sensor measures the light and moves a needle on the top plate of the camera. To read it, you have to take the camera away from your eye. That slows you down, but the reading is precise. The cell is sensitive to the direction of the light and can give false readings in strong side lighting.

The catch: these models need a 1.35V mercury battery (PX625), which has been banned for more than 20 years.

LED meter in the viewfinder (35TE, 35SE, 35LED)

Three LEDs in the viewfinder: red at the top (overexposed), green in the middle (correct), red at the bottom (underexposed). Quicker and more intuitive than the needle. You meter without taking the camera away from your eye.

These models take the 5.6-volt PX27 cell, also mercury and also no longer available. There are adapters for these too.

Selenium meter (B35/35B)

The selenium cell needs no battery, but it ages: after more than 40 years, many selenium meters have become sluggish or died completely. If you find a B35 with a working selenium meter, you’re in luck.

Solving the battery problem

Our solution for the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic: if the needle has stopped moving, it’s often just the battery. We use our PX625 adapter for this, sold as a set for €22.95 with two adapters and six type 675 zinc-air cells. The cells deliver around 1.4 V, just slightly more than the 1.35 V of the original.

The original mercury batteries (PX625 for the CdS models, PX27 for the LED models) are no longer available. The PX27 in the LED models has its own adapters; the table “Which accessories fit which model?” in the section on the variants shows which one goes with your model. For the PX625, you have these alternatives:

MR-9 from Kanto Camera: This adapter uses a small circuit to bring the voltage of a silver oxide battery down from 1.55V to around 1.35V. Buy it once and it lasts a long time; the only thing you replace is the inexpensive battery. The “MR9” in the name of our PX625 adapter for the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic, on the other hand, simply refers to the old standard designation for the PX625 size. It has no circuit. Instead it holds a type 675 zinc-air cell from the drugstore, which delivers around 1.4V under the tiny load of the light meter, only slightly more than the original mercury cell. An LR44 or SR44 is the same size as a 675 but delivers 1.5V (LR44) or 1.55V (SR44), and that throws off the Rollei 35’s meter. That’s why it’s marked as not recommended in the table. In cameras the manufacturer designed for an LR44 or SR44, however, it’s exactly the right battery. If you’d rather not keep swapping disposable cells, go for our PX625 rechargeable battery with USB-C charger. It runs at 1.25 to 1.30V, so slightly below the original rather than above it: the deviation leans toward overexposure and stays under a third of a stop, which won’t show on negative film. To see which battery and which adapter go with which model, check our overview of all Rollei batteries.

Zone Focusing, Film Tips and Common Mistakes

The Rollei 35 has no rangefinder and no focusing screen. You set the distance on the scale on the lens, a technique known as zone focusing.

Zone Focusing with the Rollei 35

The principle: at smaller apertures (f/8, f/11, f/16), depth of field is so generous that you don’t need to focus precisely; an estimated distance is enough.

1. Choose your aperture: f/8 or higher. The higher the f-number, the smaller the opening and the deeper the zone of sharpness.
2. Estimate the distance: 1–2 m for portraits, 3–5 m for street, infinity for landscapes.
3. Use the hyperfocal distance: At f/11 with the focus set to 5 m, depth of field extends from about 2.5 m to infinity. If you set 3 m instead (typical for street shots), the distant background will be out of focus.
4. Preset your focus: Set the focus ring before you take the shot, not as you press the shutter release.

The 3-meter rule sums it up: for street shooting, focus at 3 meters and use f/8 or f/11. The area around the 3 meters you’ve set will be sharp, while the distant background goes soft. For landscapes, or whenever you want “everything” sharp, focus at 5 meters and use f/11 (hyperfocal distance).

Recommended films

The Rollei 35 takes any standard 35mm film. A few pairings work especially well:

Common mistakes with the Rollei 35

The classic Rollei 35 killer (lens mechanism): Never collapse the lens until the shutter has been cocked (i.e. the film has been advanced). This is the single most important rule with the Rollei 35, because getting it wrong wrecks the camera mechanically on the spot. Force the lens in while the shutter isn’t cocked and you’ll break the linkage inside beyond repair.

Always follow this order:
1. Fire the shutter
2. Cock the shutter (advance the film)
3. Press the lens release button
4. Turn the lens and push it in.

Other common mistakes:

• Battery drain from light on the meter cell: Contrary to a stubborn internet myth, the CdS models (Rollei 35, T, S, Classic) have no switch on the lens. The meter is always on. The only way to save the battery is to keep the meter cell in the dark, in a camera case or under a battery saver. The lens cap won’t help, because the meter cell has its own window. Only the LED models switch the meter on with a light touch of the shutter button.

  Battery saver cover for Rollei 35, 35 S & 35 T (from €29.95)

• Wrong battery voltage: Running the camera on 1.5V directly instead of 1.35V leads to consistent underexposure (roughly 1.5 to 2 stops too dark). On slide film, that means black, unusable frames.
• A finger over the meter cell: The camera is so small that it’s all too easy to cover the meter cell with your finger.
• Forgetting to set the focus: When you zone focus, it’s easy to forget to reset the distance when the distance to your subject changes.

How the Rollei 35 handles differently from what you’re used to

The Rollei 35 plays by its own rules. For many people that’s exactly where its charm lies, while some beginners get frustrated and end up selling it again:

• Flash shoe on the bottom: When you shoot with flash, you hold the camera upside down so the flash sits on top. Otherwise the extended lens casts its shadow up from below across your subject’s face.
• Left-handed film advance: The advance lever sits on the left side of the body and is worked with your left thumb, unlike on almost any other camera.
• Frame counter on the bottom: To see which frame you’re on, you have to turn the camera over.

What to look out for when buying used

A Rollei 35 from the original production run is at least 44 years old, and some are over 60; only the Classic series is younger. Mechanical cameras age, and the Rollei 35 has a few well-known weak spots.

Pre-purchase checklist

On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S, the battery compartment is inside the film chamber, so you’ll have to take the back off to check it. The screw cap sits deep inside the body, and a coin easily slips and damages the slot. If you’re heading to a camera fair, it’s better to bring a battery compartment tool. On the 35SE and 35TE, the compartment sits under a flap on the top plate.

CLA: Clean, Lubricate, Adjust

With cameras this old, a CLA (professional cleaning, lubrication and adjustment) almost always makes sense. Depending on the workshop, expect to pay €80–150. You’ll find workshops that repair Rollei cameras in our list of camera repair shops. Some dealers sell cameras that have already had a CLA and come with a warranty: the safest route, but also the most expensive.

Where to buy

• eBay (classifieds and auctions): The widest selection, but sales there aren’t vetted, so there’s a risk.
• Specialist dealers: FilmFurbish (UK), Kamerastore (FI), Japan Camera Hunter: CLA and warranty included, at a premium of 30–50%.
• Flea markets and camera fairs: You can hold the camera in your hands and check it over, and prices are often fair.
• Reddit r/photomarket and Photrio: Sales within the community, often with honest condition descriptions.

Independent assessment by FilmFurbish (source): Jeremy at FilmFurbish has been repairing and selling Rollei 35s for years. His take:

1. Quality difference between German and Singapore models: Barely noticeable. Only minor changes to parts, with no effect on function or feel.
2. Meter accuracy: Good, but not as precise as a handheld light meter. No problem for negative film; for slide film, Jeremy recommends a light meter app.
3. Price trend: The price of the 35S with the Sonnar nearly doubled in two years (as of 2023).

What is an inherited Rollei 35 worth, and how do you get it working again?

A reader from Wiesbaden commented on this article to tell us they’d inherited a “dead” Rollei 35 from their aunt. Before you write off a camera like that as broken or sell it, it’s worth taking a closer look. The Rollei 35’s shutter is fully mechanical; the battery only powers the light meter. So without a battery the camera still takes pictures, it just doesn’t meter.

Is it really broken?

First, make sure you’re operating it correctly. Go through these steps in order:

1. Check for film. Flip out the rewind crank and turn it gently in the direction of the arrow. If you feel resistance, there’s still a film in the camera. Rewind it before you take the back off, or you’ll fog it.
2. Extend the lens. As long as the lens is retracted into the body, the shutter release is locked. Pull it out and turn it as far as it will go, where it clicks into place. That’s also how the original manual describes it.
3. Check the advance lever. If the lever won’t move, the shutter is usually already cocked. In that case, fire the shutter and wind on again. If it still won’t move after that, you may have reached the end of the roll, so don’t force it any further.
4. Listen to the shutter. Set 1/2 second and fire. You should hear a distinct pause between the shutter opening and closing; at 1/500 it sounds like a single click.

Never force the lens back in; it will only retract once the shutter is cocked (see common mistakes). If the shutter release stays locked even with the lens clicked into place, if the slow speeds stick, or if you see white threads in the lens when you hold it up to the light, no battery will fix it. That’s a job for a repair shop.

Which battery does it need?

On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S, the battery compartment is inside the film chamber; on the 35SE and 35TE, it sits under a flap on the top plate. If there’s still an old cell inside, take it out, even if it looks dry. Rollei itself advises in the manual that you remove the battery if the camera won’t be used for a long time. Green or white crust on the contacts comes from a leaking cell. You can loosen light deposits with a cotton swab and a little vinegar, then wipe over with isopropyl alcohol. Contacts that are pitted or eaten away are a job for a repair shop. Old button cells belong in battery recycling, not in household waste.

Which battery goes in next depends on the model. For the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic, there’s our PX625 adapter with a zinc-air cell. If you’d rather recharge, go for the PX625 rechargeable battery. The 35TE and 35SE need the PX27 adapter, and the 35LED takes the round PX27 adapter. The B35 and C35 don’t need a battery at all. If the screw cap in the film chamber is stuck, the battery compartment tool will help. With zinc-air cells, peel off the sticker first and wait one to two minutes; only then will the cell deliver power. If the meter still shows nothing with a fresh battery, you can keep shooting anyway and meter with a light meter app.

What will a Rollei 35 fetch when you sell it?

The price column in the comparison table gives you a rough idea. Where your camera falls within that range comes down mainly to which lens it has and what condition the camera is in. According to FilmFurbish, Sonnar models are more sought after than Tessar models, and collectors pay a premium for German-made examples. What cameras actually sold for is a better guide than asking prices. On eBay, the “Sold items” filter shows you those prices.

Whether a repair pays off depends on the model. A CLA costs €80–150, while according to the table a B35 fetches €100–200 and a C35 €80–150. With those two, there’s little left once the repair shop has been paid. With the Tessar and Sonnar models, which the table puts at €250 and up, a repair is more likely to be worth it. You’ll find addresses in our list of camera repair shops. If you’d rather sell without a repair, include a battery, tested shutter speeds and a photo of the view through the lens showing no haze or fungus. That way you can offer the camera as tested rather than “untested”.

Ausgeknipst accessories for the Rollei 35

For the Rollei 35’s mercury battery problem, we offer adapters for both battery types: PX625 for the CdS models and PX27 for the LED models. The accessories table above shows which part fits which model:

Accessory starter kit for Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35SE, 35TE (€79.95) · Universal PX625 battery adapter for Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, Classic (from €22.95) · PX27 battery adapter for Rollei 35 SE and 35 TE (from €24.95) · PX27 battery adapter, round, for Rollei 35 LED (from €19.95) · Two-piece hard case for Rollei 35 S, SE, T, TE (from €37.95) · Lens cap for Rollei 35 (Tessar versions) (€17.95) · Lens cap for Rollei 35 S (Sonnar) & B 35 (€19.95) · 24 mm lens hood for Rollei 35, 35 T, 35 TE, B35 (€19.95) · 30.5 mm lens hood for Rollei 35 S, 35 SE (€14.95) · PX625 rechargeable battery with USB-C charger (from €49.95)

The PX625 adapter keeps running costs low on the CdS models. It takes type 675 zinc-air cells, which you can buy at the drugstore or chemist and which deliver around 1.4V under the light meter’s load. It fits the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic, but not the 35TE, 35SE or 35LED (those take PX27).

Video Picks

Two of the best video overviews of the Rollei 35 family:

TechHeritage compares seven Rollei 35 models hands-on, with tips on changing the battery and loading film.

FABS IN THE WILD compares the entire Rollei 35 family and recommends the 35SE.

Our guide walks you through changing the battery in the Rollei 35, 35S and 35T step by step. How to change the Rollei 35 battery.

Battery adapters, lens caps, cases: everything for the Rollei 35 series. Shop Rollei 35 accessories.

Questions answered before you ask them: our blog for film photographers. All articles.