Rollei 35 variants compared: 2026 buying guide

The Rollei 35 was introduced in 1966 and was for a long time the smallest full-frame 35mm camera in the world. The most important variants are the basic Rollei 35, the fast SE with a Sonnar 2.8/40 mm lens, and the more affordable B with a selenium light meter that requires no battery. Models with mercury batteries now require a replacement power supply for the light meter.

 

 

 

One of the best English-language articles on the Rollei 35 SE, with honest buying advice and real-world experience. Read the article.

Table of contents

1. The Rollei 35, a camera that almost never existed
2. All variants compared side by side
3. Tessar, Sonnar, Triotar: the lenses explained
4. Light meter and the battery problem
5. Zone focusing, film tips, and common mistakes
6. Ergonomic quirks (The Rollei Quirks)
7. What to look out for when buying used
8. What is an inherited Rollei 35 worth, and how do you get it working again?
9. Ausgeknipst accessories for the Rollei 35

 

 

The Rollei 35: a camera that almost never existed

In 1962, Heinz Waaske sat in his office at Wirgin in Wiesbaden, working on a prototype that nobody wanted. The idea: a fully capable 35mm camera that would fit in a jacket pocket. Without compromising image quality.

Waaske offered his design to Wirgin, then Leitz, and then Kodak. None of them were interested. The camera was too small, they said. Too unconventional. Too risky.

In January 1965, Waaske moved to Rollei in Braunschweig. Two months later, managing director Heinrich Peesel discovered the prototype and immediately ordered it into series production. In October 1966, Rollei presented the camera at Photokina in Cologne. It was the smallest full-frame 35mm camera in the world.

The clever part of the design: The retractable lens reduces the camera’s depth to under 6 cm, one third of the volume of comparable 35mm cameras of the time. The shutter uses aperture blades instead of a larger cloth shutter. Aperture and shutter speed are set using dials on the front, not on top of the body. Everything about this camera breaks with convention.

Over the following 30 years, more than two million Rollei 35 cameras were produced in various versions. The first series was made in Braunschweig; from 1971, Rollei moved production to Singapore. Rollei went bankrupt in 1981. After the 1981 bankruptcy, the new owners re-established production of the revised Classic series in Braunschweig from 1990 onward.

Today, almost 60 years later, the Rollei 35 is one of the most sought-after compact film cameras. And there are enough variants to get thoroughly lost. That’s exactly why this article exists.

 

 

All variants compared side by side

The following table lists all relevant Rollei 35 models. Important: Not every camera with “35” in its name belongs to the same family. The XF 35 is a completely different type of camera (a rangefinder with program autoexposure), but bears the name. The “Rollei 35 AF,” introduced in 2024, is not made by Rollei, but by MiNT Camera (Hong Kong) under an official name license. It has a 35mm f/2.8 lens, LiDAR autofocus (not zone focus), automatic exposure, and a built-in flash. It is a modern point-and-shoot and must be strictly distinguished from the original analog models, both historically and technically.

Quick recommendation: For photographers: Rollei 35SE or 35S, best lens, reliable metering (SE), compact construction.
Best value for money: Rollei 35T, identical image quality to the original, often cheaper.
For collectors: Rollei 35 (Made in Germany) or 35 Classic (Titanium/Gold/Platinum editions).
Budget entry: B35, inexpensive, no battery problems, but with a simpler Triotar lens.

XF 35 ≠ Rollei 35: The Rollei XF 35 is a completely different camera, a rangefinder with program autoexposure and a permanently attached 40mm f/2.3 Sonnar. No retractable lens and no manual exposure control. A good lens, but a completely different concept.

Which accessories fit which model?

Once you have decided on a model, the first thing is usually the battery for the light meter. After that come a lens cap, if the original one is missing, and a lens hood against stray light. What fits depends on the lens and the light meter. The Rollei 35, 35T, 35TE and B35 have a 24 mm filter thread, the 35S and 35SE one of 30.5 mm. The LED models also need a different battery than the CdS models with the needle on top.

Disclaimer: We sell some of the products that appear here. Even so, the article is meant first and foremost as help and not as a sales pitch.

Both lens hoods have a 40.5 mm filter thread at the front, so you don't need rare 24 or 30.5 mm filters. The protective case fits the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35TE and 35SE. On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S it also covers the metering cell, so the battery doesn't drain while the case is on. With the lens hood screwed on, however, the lid of the case won't close.

Battery adapter, lens cap, lens hood and protective case are also available together for Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35SE and 35TE in the accessory starter kit, where you just pick your model.

 

 

Tessar, Sonnar, Triotar: the lenses explained

The lens is the key distinguishing feature between the Rollei 35 models. Three lens types were used, all with the same 40mm focal length but with fundamentally different designs.

Carl Zeiss Tessar 40mm f/3.5: the classic

Four lenses in three groups. The Tessar design dates back to 1902 and was still one of the sharpest designs for this format in 1966. In the Rollei 35, it delivers razor-sharp images from f/5.6, with slight softness wide open—typical of Tessar designs.

Earlier German-made examples were only single-coated. Direct backlight can cause flare. A UV filter protects the front element. Against light coming in at an angle from outside the frame, a lens hood helps more, because it keeps the light away from the lens instead of putting another glass surface in front of it. For the Rollei 35, 35T, 35TE and B35, our lens hood with 24 mm mount fits. Rollei used only single-coated Tessar lenses (Single Coated) throughout all model ranges.

Installed in: Rollei 35 (Original), 35T, 35TE

Carl Zeiss Sonnar 40mm f/2.8: the premium lens

Five lenses in four groups. Half a stop faster than the Tessar, with visibly better contrast and pleasant bokeh at wide open aperture. Among collectors and photographers, the Sonnar is considered the better choice, and this is reflected in the prices.

The Sonnar on the 35S and 35SE has a 30.5 mm filter thread, so the lens hood for the Tessar models does not fit. For the 35S and 35SE there is a dedicated lens hood with a 30.5 mm mount.

The Sonnar was manufactured at the Rollei/Zeiss joint factory in Singapore under license from Carl Zeiss. There is no quality difference compared with German Zeiss lenses.

Installed in: Rollei 35S, 35SE, 35 Classic

Schneider-Kreuznach S-Xenar 40mm f/3.5: the rare Tessar clone

Between 1972 and 1973, Carl Zeiss could not supply enough Tessars to the new factory in Singapore. Rollei temporarily sourced lenses from the renowned German manufacturer Schneider-Kreuznach. Optically, the S-Xenar is nearly identical to the Tessar (4 lenses in 3 groups), but because of its lower production run (approx. 30,000), it is significantly more sought-after by collectors.

Triotar 40mm f/3.5: the entry-level lens

Three lenses in a triplet construction. Simpler, cheaper, and lighter. Quite usable at smaller apertures (f/8 and below), but noticeably softer wide open than the Tessar and Sonnar. The Triotar was the budget option for Rollei's entry-level models.

Installed in: B35/35B, C35, 35LED

Tessar or Sonnar? In everyday use, the difference is small, especially at f/8 and smaller apertures. Anyone using zone focusing (as is common with the Rollei 35) rarely shoots wide open. The Sonnar's half-stop advantage matters for indoor photography and low light. For daylight street photography, the Tessar is equally suitable.

 

 

Light meter and the battery problem

Three different light-meter systems were used in the Rollei 35. Which system is installed affects everyday use more than the choice of lens.

CdS meter with needle display (35, 35T, 35S, Classic)

A cadmium sulfide sensor measures the light and moves a needle on the top of the camera. You have to take the camera away from your eye to read the display—slowing you down, but providing precision. The sensor is sensitive to the direction of the light and can give incorrect readings in strong side light.

Problem: These models require a 1.35V mercury battery (PX625), which has been banned for over 20 years.

LED meter in the viewfinder (35TE, 35SE, 35LED)

Three LEDs in the viewfinder: red at the top (overexposed), green in the middle (correct), red at the bottom (underexposed). Faster and more intuitive than the needle display. You can meter without taking the camera away from your eye.

These models use a 5.6V PX27 battery, also mercury-based and likewise no longer available. Adapters exist.

Selenium meter (B35/35B)

Independent of batteries, a benefit that is nevertheless overshadowed by the aging of the selenium cell. After 40+ years, many selenium meters are sluggish or have failed completely. Anyone who finds a B35 with a working selenium meter is lucky.

Solving the battery problem

The original mercury batteries (PX625 for CdS models, PX27 for LED models) are no longer available. These alternatives are available:

MR-9 adapter: An MR-9 adapter with a built-in diode reduces the voltage of a standard silver oxide battery from 1.5V to the correct 1.35V. Bought once, usable for a long time, only the inexpensive battery gets replaced. Our PX625 adapter works without a diode and fits the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic. It takes a type 675 zinc-air cell from the drugstore, which drops to around 1.35V under the tiny load of the light meter. An LR44 or SR44 is the same size but delivers 1.5V and therefore does not belong in it. If you do not want to keep replacing disposable cells, use our PX625 rechargeable battery with USB-C charger. It works at 1.25 to 1.30V, i.e. slightly below the original rather than above it: the deviation goes towards overexposure and is less than a third of a stop, which is not visible on negative film. Our overview of all Rollei batteries shows which battery and which adapter goes with which model.

 

 

Zone focusing, film tips, and common mistakes

The Rollei 35 has no rangefinder. No focusing screen, no autofocus, and no split-image indicator. Focus is set using a distance scale on the lens, known as zone focusing.

Zone Focusing with the Rollei 35

The principle: At smaller apertures (f/8, f/11, f/16), the depth of field is so great that you do not need to focus precisely; an approximate distance is sufficient.

1. Choose the aperture: f/8 or smaller. The smaller the aperture, the larger the zone of sharpness.
2. Estimate the distance: 1–2 meters for portraits. 3–5 meters for street photography. Infinity for landscapes.
3. Use the hyperfocal distance: At f/11 with the focus set to 5 meters, everything from approximately 2.5 meters to infinity is sharp due to the depth of field. If you lock the focus at 3 meters (typical for street photography), be aware that the distant background will become blurred.
4. Set it beforehand: Set the focus ring before taking the picture, not while pressing the shutter release.

The 3-meter rule: Set the focus to 3 meters for street photography, and the aperture to f/8 or f/11. The immediate foreground will be sharp, while the background (infinity) will be out of focus. For landscape photography or when you want “everything” to be sharp, choose f/11 and set the distance to 5 meters (hyperfocal distance).

Film recommendations

The Rollei 35 works with any standard 35mm film. Some combinations work particularly well:

Common mistakes when using the Rollei 35

The Rollei 35 camera killer (lens mechanism): The absolute cardinal rule of the Rollei 35, ignoring which causes immediate, catastrophic mechanical damage: The lens must NEVER be unlocked and pushed back into the body before the shutter has been cocked (the film advanced). Trying to force the lens back in while the shutter is uncocked irreversibly breaks the internal transmission mechanism.

The correct order is:
1. Press the shutter release
2. Cock the shutter (advance the film)
3. Press the release button
4. Rotate and retract the lens.

Other common mistakes:

• Battery drain due to a missing lens cap: Contrary to persistent internet myths, CdS models (Rollei 35, T, S, Classic) do NOT have a switch on the lens. The light meter is permanently active. The battery is only conserved when the metering window is in the dark (camera bag, lens cap, or battery saver). Only the LED models activate metering when the shutter release is tapped.

  Battery saver cover for Rollei 35, 35 S & 35 T (from EUR 29.95)

• Incorrect battery voltage: Using 1.5V directly instead of 1.35V causes systematic underexposure (around 1.5 to 2 stops too dark), which is particularly disastrous with slide film, as underexposure results in black, unusable images.
• Finger over the metering window: The compact design makes it tempting to cover the CdS sensor with your finger.
• Focus not set: With zone focusing, it’s easy to forget to adjust the distance when the distance to the subject changes.

 

 

Ergonomic quirks (The Rollei Quirks)

An honest practical buying guide cannot ignore the Rollei 35’s highly unconventional ergonomics. These quirks are part of the camera’s charm, but they are also the most common reason frustrated newcomers resell them:

• Hot shoe on the bottom: When using a flash, the camera must be held upside down (with the flash housing pointing down). Otherwise, the extended lens would cast “monster shadows” upward onto the subject’s face.
• Left-handed film advance: The advance lever is on the left side of the body and is operated with the left thumb, unlike almost every other camera in the world.
• Frame counter on the bottom: To read the current film count, you have to turn the camera upside down.

What to look out for when buying used

A Rollei 35 is at least 44 years old. Some examples are over 60. Mechanical cameras age, and the Rollei 35 has a few known weaknesses.

Pre-purchase checklist

On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S, the battery compartment is located in the film chamber, so the back has to come off to check it. The screw cap sits deep in the body there, and a coin easily slips off and damages the slot. So you are better off bringing a battery compartment tool along to a camera fair. On the 35SE and 35TE, the compartment sits under a flap on the top.

CLA: Clean, Lubricate, Adjust

With cameras this old, a CLA (professional cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment) is almost always worthwhile. It costs EUR 80–150, depending on the workshop. You can find workshops that repair Rollei cameras in our list of camera repair shops. Some dealers already sell CLA-serviced examples with a warranty; this is the safest option, but also the most expensive.

Where to buy?

• eBay (classifieds and auctions): Largest selection, but there is a risk with unchecked sales.
• Specialist dealers: FilmFurbish (UK), Kamerastore (FI), Japan Camera Hunter: CLA and warranty included, with a 30–50% premium.
• Flea markets and camera fairs: Hands-on inspection possible, often fair prices.
• Reddit r/photomarket and Photrio: Community sales, often with honest condition descriptions.

Independent review by FilmFurbish (source): Jeremy from FilmFurbish has been repairing and selling Rollei 35 cameras for years. His assessment:

1. Quality differences between Germany and Singapore: Barely noticeable. Only minor changes to the parts, with no effect on functionality or feel.
2. Metering accuracy: Good, but not as precise as a handheld light meter. No problem for negative film. A metering app is recommended for slide film.
3. Price development: The 35S with Sonnar has nearly doubled in price over two years (as of 2023).

What is an inherited Rollei 35 worth, and how do you get it working again?

Below this article, a reader from Wiesbaden wrote to us that they had inherited a “dead” Rollei 35 from his aunt. Before you write off a camera like this as defective or sell it, it is worth taking a closer look. The shutter of the Rollei 35 works mechanically; the battery only powers the light meter. So the camera keeps taking pictures without a battery, it just does not meter.

Is it really broken?

First check the controls, in this order:

1. Check for a film. Fold out the rewind crank and turn it carefully in the direction of the arrow. If you feel resistance, there is still a film in the camera. Rewind it before you remove the back, otherwise you will expose it.
2. Extend the lens. As long as the lens is retracted into the body, the shutter release is locked. Pull it out and turn it all the way until it clicks into place. This is also how the original manual describes it.
3. Check the wind lever. If the lever cannot be moved, the shutter is usually already cocked. Then release the shutter and cock it again. If it still does not move afterwards, the film may be finished; in that case, do not force it any further.
4. Listen to the shutter. Set 1/2 second and fire. There must be an audible pause between opening and closing, at 1/500 it sounds like a single click.

Never force the lens back in, it can only be retracted with the shutter cocked (see common mistakes). If the shutter release stays blocked even with the lens locked in place, if the slow speeds hang, or if you see white threads in the lens against the light, no battery will help. Then it is a job for a repair shop.

Which battery does it need?

On the Rollei 35, 35T and 35S the battery compartment is in the film chamber, on the 35SE and 35TE it is under a flap on the top. If an old cell is still in there, take it out, even if it looks dry. Rollei itself advises in the manual to remove the battery when the camera is not used for a longer period. Green or white crusts on the contacts come from a leaked cell. Light traces you can remove with a cotton swab and a little vinegar, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol afterwards. Corroded contacts are a case for the repair shop. Old button cells belong in the battery collection, not in household waste.

Which battery goes in afterwards depends on the model. For the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic there is our PX625 adapter with a zinc-air cell. If you prefer recharging, take the PX625 rechargeable battery. The 35TE and 35SE need the PX27 adapter, the 35LED the PX27 adapter in round form. The B35 and C35 get by without a battery. If the screw cap in the film chamber is stuck, the battery compartment tool helps. With zinc-air cells, peel off the sticker first and wait one to two minutes, only then does the cell deliver power. If the light meter shows nothing even with a fresh battery, you can still take photos and meter with a light meter app.

What does a Rollei 35 fetch when sold?

The price column in the comparison table gives a first frame of reference. Where your camera lands within it is decided above all by lens and condition. According to FilmFurbish, Sonnar models are more sought after than Tessar models, and examples built in Germany fetch a premium among collectors. More reliable than asking prices are prices at which items actually sold. On eBay the “Sold items” filter shows them.

Whether a repair pays off depends on the model. A CLA costs 80–150 EUR, a B35 fetches 100–200 EUR according to the table, a C35 80–150 EUR. With these two, little is left after the repair shop, with the Tessar and Sonnar models, which fetch from 250 EUR according to the table, more so. Addresses are in our list of camera repair shops. If you want to sell without a repair, then with a battery, tested speeds and a photo in which you can see through the lens without haze and fungus. That way you offer the camera as tested rather than as “untested”.

 

 

Ausgeknipst accessories for the Rollei 35

For the mercury battery problem of the Rollei 35 we have adapters for both battery types, PX625 for the CdS models and PX27 for the LED models. Which part fits which model is listed in the accessories table above:

Accessory starter kit for Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, 35SE, 35TE (EUR 79.95) · Universal PX625 battery adapter, for Rollei 35, 35T, 35S, Classic (from EUR 22.95) · PX27 battery adapter, for Rollei 35 SE and 35 TE (from EUR 24.95) · PX27 battery adapter round, for Rollei 35 LED (from EUR 19.95) · Two-piece hard case for Rollei 35 S, SE, T, TE (from EUR 37.95) · Lens cap for Rollei 35 (Tessar versions) (EUR 17.95) · Lens cap for Rollei 35 S (Sonnar) & B 35 (EUR 19.95) · Lens hood 24 mm for Rollei 35, 35 T, 35 TE, B35 (EUR 19.95) · Lens hood 30.5 mm for Rollei 35 S, 35 SE (EUR 14.95) · PX625 rechargeable battery with USB-C charger (from EUR 49.95)

With the PX625 adapter, the running costs of the CdS models stay low. It takes zinc-air cells type 675, which are available at the drugstore in a 6-pack for under 3 EUR and which deliver around 1.35V under the load of the light meter. It fits the Rollei 35, 35T, 35S and Classic, not the 35TE, 35SE and 35LED (which use PX27).

 

 

Video tips

Two of the best video overviews of the Rollei 35 family:

TechHeritage presents seven Rollei 35 models in a hands-on comparison, including tips on changing the battery and loading film.

FABS IN THE WILD compares the entire Rollei 35 family, with a special focus on the 35 SE as a buying recommendation.

 

 

 

Our guide shows you how to change the battery of the Rollei 35, 35S and 35T step by step. Changing the Rollei 35 battery.

Battery adapters, lens caps, bags: everything for the Rollei 35 series. Rollei 35 accessories.

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