Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide

The Minox 35 was the smallest full-frame 35mm camera of its time: a compact Makrolon body weighing around 190 g. Different models need different batteries, and for some variants the original cell is no longer available. This guide explains which model suits you and how to keep the camera alive.

Anyone who knows me knows that the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favourite cameras. At Ausgeknipst we design parts for dozens of camera systems. But to be honest, there is one camera I keep putting in my bag whenever I'm out and about privately. It's not a Leica and it's not a Nikon. It's my beat-up Minox 35 GT (on the right in the picture).

Why? Because it is engineering in a vest-pocket format. In 1974 Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photo world with it: a full-frame 35mm camera that was smaller than many half-frame cameras, and at just under 190 g it was only about half the weight of the Rollei 35, which was already very popular at the time, and noticeably flatter in your pocket too. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared to the Rollei 35: the lens disappears behind a flap when the camera isn't in use, so it's protected in your bag. And because the body is made of glass-fibre-reinforced Makrolon, the camera weighs almost nothing.

But: the Minox 35 could only be made so small because it contains a lot of electronics for its time, and unfortunately that is exactly what also makes it quite prone to faults. Of the more than 100 Minox 35 cameras that have passed through my hands since Ausgeknipst was founded, an estimated 50% were broken (we were able to repair about 30% of the broken ones, because most of the time only the shutter magnet needs cleaning).

But that comes later. First you need to decide on a model, and that's exactly what this guide helps with: finding the right model and keeping it alive.

The Minox used to run on the PX27 mercury cell, which is now banned. With our precisely fitting battery adapter you can easily run your camera on four modern SR44 button cells. Disclaimer: we sell some of the products mentioned here. Even so, this article is meant first and foremost as help, not as a sales pitch.

Part 1: The Minox family tree (Which one should I buy?)

There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here is the overview so you can find your way through the jungle of model names.

1. The classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)

These are the models with the typical sloping top of the body and the needle in the viewfinder.

Minox 35 EL (1974): The original ancestor. Aperture priority (you choose the aperture, the camera chooses the shutter speed). Historically important, but technically still rough (no backlight switch, no self-timer).

Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. Got a backlight switch (“2x”) that doubles the exposure. An important feature!

Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favourite. Has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35 mm f/2.8. Sharp and contrasty, with a character you'll recognise in your photos.

Minox 35 PL (1982): The “Program” version. Fully automatic for people who don't want to think about apertures. Good for snapshots, but less creative control.

Note on power supply: These models originally ran on the PX27 mercury battery (5.6 V). It is no longer available.

The solution: The Minox electronics use a bridge circuit and therefore tolerate small deviations in voltage: the 6 V from four SR44 button cells is not a problem electrically (the operating notes below explain why not LR44). What matters is the battery adapter, a sleeve. The button cells are too small: without an adapter they won't make contact or may even cause a short circuit. Our PX27 Adapter holds the modern button cells, connects them correctly and makes sure your Minox gets reliable power again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27. However, it has less capacity than four button cells and is often only available in specialist shops.

You can find all the information on batteries and user manuals here: Minox 35 battery & manual overview

2. The “Automatics” (ML, MB)

From 1985 on, the design became somewhat more angular (“brick shape”).

Minox 35 ML: For many, the best model. The ML offers program mode and, in addition, aperture priority. Instead of a needle, there are LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an “Exposure Lock” (metering memory), extremely useful in difficult light.

Minox 35 MB: Basically an ML, but without program mode. Aperture priority only.

Power supply for this series: From the factory, the models use the PX28 battery (6 V). It is harder to find these days than standard button cells, so you need our PX28 Adapter. The adapter is a simple sleeve without electronics that takes four individual, inexpensive SR44 button cells.

3. The Moderns (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)

At the end of the 80s there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called “MC Minoxar” (multi-coating) and often had a built-in skylight filter.

Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very mature. Minimum focusing distance down to 70 cm (instead of 90 cm). More robust internals (the GT-S is a GT-E that automatically reads the film speed from the DX code on the cartridge).

Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with a titanium-anodized aluminium shell. More of a display cabinet piece, but beautiful. It is also available as a gold-plated collector's version (see cover image).

Battery note: The GT-E and GT-S models have a modified battery compartment and use two CR 1/3 N lithium batteries from the factory (3 V each = 6 V). No adapter is needed here. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28 and needs our PX28 Adapter.

Part 2: Buying Advice (The Minox Ailments)

If you see a used Minox 35 at a flea market or on eBay, you need to check three things. Otherwise you're buying electronic junk.

The “Click” Test (Shutter)

The biggest problem with the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits unused for a long time, the magnets get gummed up or the electronics give out.

The test: Put the battery in, open the front flap fully, operate the film advance lever twice, press the shutter release. You hear a “click”. But: open the back, hold the camera up to the light and look through the lens from behind. Do the blades really open? Often it does click (the release magnet), but the shutter stays closed. We used to repair this a lot, but it's fiddly.

Self-repair tip: If you feel up to cleaning the shutter magnet yourself, you'll find the video tutorial here: YouTube video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.

The ISO Dial of Death

On many GT and GL models, the markings on the ISO dial on the underside of the camera are simply worn off. You no longer know whether you set ISO 100 or 400. It's annoying, but not a total loss.

The solution: We make a replacement plate for the ISO dial with the numbers engraved rather than just printed. Stick it on once and you're set.

The Lost Battery Cover

A classic. These things are tiny and are missing on 30% of used cameras. No cover, no circuit. No circuit, no shutter release. If yours is missing: we offer replacement covers that are themselves electrically conductive and so ensure contact.

 

Important operating tips

Three subtleties every Minox newcomer needs to know before thinking their camera is broken:

• Double-stroke film advance: On the Minox 35, the film advance lever must be operated twice to fully cock the shutter. After just one stroke, the camera will not fire. That's simply how the camera is built.
• Front flap = main switch: The electronics only receive power once the front flap is 100% open and locked in place. Even at 99%, the camera will not fire. When opening it, make sure it clicks firmly into place.
• SR44 instead of LR44: If you use one of our adapters with button cells, be sure to use SR44 (silver oxide) instead of LR44 (alkaline). Alkaline cells steadily lose voltage, which on the Minox, lacking true voltage regulation, eventually leads to incorrect exposures. SR44 cells hold their voltage constant at 1.55 V right to the end.

Part 3: How to take better pictures (Zone Focus!)

The Minox 35 is not a point & shoot with autofocus (except for the ugly late AF models, which we won't talk about here). The camera has zone focus.

You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It isn't.

• At f/8 and set to 3 meters, almost everything from 2 m to 5 m is sharp.
• For landscapes: infinity.
• For street: f/8, prefocus at 3 meters (“snap focus”) and simply press the shutter when your subject is in the zone.

The shutter is almost silent, which turns the Minox into a ninja camera for street photography.

Which Minox 35 I recommend for you

Do you still need a Minox 35 today? Yes. There is hardly a camera that delivers so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT, simply because I always had it with me when the big SLR was too heavy.

My recommendation for buyers:

The best value for money: The Minox 35 GT. The best balance of features and availability.

The pro tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 70 cm minimum focusing distance). The MDC is the only one with a titanium-anodized aluminum shell: an indestructible collector's item (but expensive!). The ML does offer LEDs in the viewfinder, but in terms of quality it is not necessarily better than a well-preserved GT.

If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in shape, feel free to stop by our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.

Good light! Yours, Vladi

Useful links from the article:

• PX27 battery adapter (for EL, GL, GT, PL)
• PX28 adapter (for ML, MB, MDC)
• Replacement ISO dial plate
• Replacement battery cover
• Filter adapter (to use filters)

Find all matching products, films and adapters in our Minox 35 overview.