Cutting 110 Format Correctly and Loading Cartridges: How to Do It (Even Without Perforation)

Choose a camera that works with film without perforation. Many cameras advance the film by friction or at fixed intervals and fire even without the “hole-sensing mechanism”.

If your camera is on this list, it works with unperforated film.

Our favourites: 110 cameras that work with unperforated film

• Pentax Auto 110 & Auto 110 Super (The classic, works very reliably)
• Rollei A110 & E110
• Canon 110ED & 110FD
• Voigtländer Vitoret 110 EL
• Minox 110S (Experiences vary here; it usually works, but a test is advisable).
• Lomography Lomomatic 110 (new, zone focus), Caution: untested and with push-pull advance (see note below)

Your camera isn't on the list? Do this quick self-test:

Take out the cartridge, leave the back open (or press the small switch that simulates “back closed”), operate the advance lever and press the shutter release.

Does the shutter fire? The camera will probably work with unperforated film.
Does the shutter release lock? The camera needs one perforation per frame.

Note on the Lomomatic 110

Push-pull advance, be careful with self-loading: The Lomomatic 110 advances the film each time it is pushed open and closed (push-pull), just like the Agfamatic and the Rollei A110. Bob Janes explicitly counts these models among the cameras that are critical for self-loaded cartridges. On top of that, there is a known weak point: in the community (r/lomography), several users report broken wind mechanisms, even with original Lomography film. We have not tested the Lomomatic 110 with our cartridges, so we simply don't know whether it works. If you try it: use at your own risk.

Why do 110 films have perforations at all?

Classic 110 film normally has one perforation hole per frame. In many cameras, this serves two important mechanical functions:

• Frame spacing: The camera “feels” where the hole is and automatically stops the advance at the right spot.
• Cocking the shutter: A small pin engages the hole. Without this resistance, some cameras won't cock the shutter. The advance spins freely, but the shutter release is not unlocked.

Are there perforators? (The Thingiverse solution)

Many of you ask us about ways to punch the film yourselves. There is a well-known project on Thingiverse (the “110 Film Perforator”) that uses hypodermic needles.

We tested this, and our honest verdict is: it's doable, but very “hacky”. Fiddling with sharp needles inside a changing bag is tricky, and the results aren't always clean. Certainly exciting for tinkerers, but rather difficult for a reliable workflow.

Are you working on a solution? Yes. We (Lars and Vladi) are actually tinkering in our workshop on a mechanical perforator that works cleanly and safely. Mechanically, though, it's a pretty tough nut to crack. Until we've cracked it and can offer you a finished device, we recommend the simpler route: the right camera.

Beware of light leaks

Another point when loading yourself is light-tightness. The 110 cartridge often uses the backing paper as an additional light seal. If you cut film yourself and load it without paper (“naked”), light can get in through the window on the back of the cartridge.

The expert Bob Janes has written a helpful article on this on the blog 35mmc (“Perfecting the 110 re-load”). Our recommendation:

• To be on the safe side, tape over the window on the back of the cartridge with black tape (electrical tape).
• Alternatively, you can reuse old backing paper if you have some.

Our system for DIYers

Scene from our Minox 8x11 workflow video, from 2:40 in the video. In the video we show the cut using the 9,2mm Minox example; with the 110 cutter it works exactly the same, step by step.

We try to make the process as easy as possible for you so that the 110 format stays alive. We're not a big company, just two enthusiasts building solutions you can't buy anywhere else. This is our current workflow:

• Cutting film: With our 110 Film Cutter you can turn any 16mm film into suitable stock.
• Loading: The film goes into our refillable empty cartridges.
• Developing: To keep handling simple, we use our special developing reels (for Jobo or Paterson tanks).
• Scanning: Our film holders make sure the small film lies flat on the scanner.

If you have any questions or aren't sure whether your camera is suitable, feel free to write to us.

Keep 110 alive!
Yours, Vladi

Related guides

• 110 Pocketfilm: The complete guide to cutting, loading, developing and scanning, the complete end-to-end workflow for the 110 format.
• Minox 8x11 Submin guide: cutting film, filling cassettes, developing and scanning, the sister tutorial for the 9,2mm subminiature format, almost the same workflow, the same family of tools.