Film Camera Batteries & Adapters: Common Problems Solved

There are hardly any new analog cameras anymore, which is why most of us want to and have to use cameras that are sometimes up to 50 years old. Unfortunately, this also means that the cameras don't always work reliably. If you have bought and inserted a new battery and/or a battery adapter and are having problems with your camera, you can read up here first. We have compiled the most common problems and possible solutions for you here. If your problem isn't listed here or you need further help, feel free to contact us!

Why are batteries advertised as 1.35V (or 1.2V) when the packaging says 1.45V?

Zinc-air batteries have a voltage of 1.45V, which, however, drops to 1.35V under load. Moreover, the problem with alkaline batteries (1.5V) is not that the voltage is slightly too high, but that it varies considerably over time. The voltage of new alkaline batteries is approx. 1.6V and then at some point drops to 1.2V (and that does distort the results).

Nickel-metal hydride batteries (NiMh) such as the Varta V80H, on the other hand, have 1.2V, which is less than the 1.35V of the PX625 mercury batteries used in the past. In general, it has to be said that a lower voltage is usually less problematic in analog cameras than one that is too high, since a lower voltage (in this case only 0.15V) leads to slight overexposure (approx. 1/3 exposure value - EV), and negative film easily tolerates overexposure of 3-5 EV without it being noticeable during development or printing. With slide film, 1/3 EV can already be noticeable. So if you use slide film and have problems with over- or underexposed films, you might consider using an expensive adapter with a diode (or even having your camera fitted with a diode to adjust the voltage).

Batteries drain within a few hours to days?

Most analog cameras are very power-efficient, so the batteries we sell should last 2-6 months depending on how much you use them. If the batteries drain within a few hours or days, this is a sign that something is wrong with your camera's electronics (outdated circuits often have problems with so-called “leakage currents”). These leakage currents can usually only be fixed by replacing the electronics, which on the one hand is extremely time-consuming and rarely economically worthwhile, and on the other hand brings the problem that you are replacing old electronics with other old electronics, which may develop the same problem sooner or later. In this case, the easiest thing is to buy another camera.

Camera doesn't respond and the light meter doesn't move?

1. The most common problem - no contact:
   a) First scrape the contacts free of oxidation residue and old battery fluid with a metal object such as a flat-head screwdriver or a key, then clean them with distilled water (glass cleaner also helps)
   b) Sometimes the spring of the battery compartment cover doesn't have enough tension to press the battery against the contact in the camera. In this case, use a screwdriver or something similar to bend the spring a little. This problem occurs mainly with the Rollei 35 series.
   
2. If none of this helps, your camera may be defective. Check (if available) whether other electronic functions such as the self-timer or the LEDs in the viewfinder work. If not, the problem may lie with your camera. Some mechanical cameras need the battery only for the light meter or the flash. If that's the case, you can simply use your camera with an external light meter (e.g. from Keks, TTArtisans or ReveniLabs) or a light meter smartphone app.
3. Sometimes the adapter fits into the battery compartment but doesn't make proper contact with the battery contacts. Check whether the contact in your camera's battery compartment is picked up:
   a) At the top and bottom (then a simple rubber O-ring adapter will also work)
   b) Or whether one contact is at the top and one on the side (then you need an adapter made of conductive plastic or metal)

Camera works with 1.5V or 6V batteries, but not with the supplied 1.35V or 5.6V ones?

Many users are used to using alkaline batteries with a higher voltage than intended for the camera. Depending on the camera, this leads to distorted light metering results (usually overexposure due to excessive voltage).
When they then switch to our battery options, which are actually better suited (because of more accurate light metering), it sometimes happens that the camera doesn't work with our batteries, even though it does with the alkaline batteries.
The reason for this is usually that the electronics in the camera have aged over time and need more voltage than originally intended in order to work correctly. In the best case, the two negative effects of too much voltage and old camera electronics cancel each other out so that your light metering is more or less accurate and you can simply keep using your camera as before.

Ordered the wrong battery?

Sometimes, despite careful research, you end up ordering the wrong battery and only notice when you see that it doesn't fit into the camera's battery compartment. That's understandable given the vast number of different battery formats.
If this has happened, it's of course no problem. Visit our website www.ausgeknipst.de and click on the magnifying glass icon. Simply type your camera model into the search field (e.g. “Canon AE-1”), or alternatively search the internet for „camera model + battery“ or „camera model + manual“ and download the manual as a .pdf. Then search the manual for the keyword “battery”.
We now offer a solution for almost all batteries. If you can't find anything, feel free to leave us a message and we'll work out a solution together.

Light meter showing incorrect readings despite fresh batteries?

1. If you use zinc-air hearing aid batteries (type 675 or p312), you need to know that they react with air. So let them sit in the air for 5 min before inserting them.

2. Otherwise, it is of course possible that the light meter or the electronics of your camera are defective or not properly calibrated (unfortunately, this is relatively common given the age of these cameras).
It's best to compare the readings with a good light meter (e.g. from a modern DSLR or mirrorless camera and, if necessary, adjust the light meter of your analog camera using exposure compensation or the ISO dial.

Return and disposal of batteries and rechargeable batteries

Pursuant to § 18 of the Battery Act, we are required to inform you as a consumer that you are legally obligated to dispose of batteries and rechargeable batteries properly. Used batteries do not belong in household waste! Batteries containing harmful substances are marked with a symbol consisting of a crossed-out waste bin and the chemical symbol (Cd, Hg or Pb) of the heavy metal that determines their classification as containing harmful substances. After use, you can return them to a municipal collection point or to a local retailer. You can also return the rechargeable batteries and batteries sold by us to us free of charge for environmentally sound disposal.