Cutting 110 Format Correctly and Loading Cartridges: How to Do It (Even Without Perforation)

Choose a camera that works with film without perforations. Many cameras transport the film by friction or fixed distances and can trigger the shutter even without the "hole-sensing mechanism."

If your camera is on this list, it works with unperforated film.

Our favorites: 110 cameras that work with unperforated film

• Pentax Auto 110 & Auto 110 Super (The classic, works very reliably)
• Rollei A110 & E110
• Canon 110ED & 110FD
• Voigtländer Vitoret 110 EL
• Minox 110S (There are mixed experiences here, it usually works, but testing is recommended).
• Lomography Lomomatic 110 (new, zone focus, works with unperforated film)

Your camera is not on the list? Do this quick self-test:

Remove the cassette, leave the back open (or press the small switch that simulates "close flap"), cock the lever, and press the shutter.

Does the shutter release? The camera probably works with unperforated film.
Does the shutter block? The camera needs one perforation per frame.

Why do 110 films have perforations at all?

Classic 110 film normally has one perforation hole per frame. This serves two important mechanical functions in many cameras:

• Frame spacing: The camera "feels" where the hole is and automatically stops the transport at the right spot.
• Cocking the shutter: A small pin engages the hole. Without this resistance, some cameras won’t cock the shutter. The transport spins through, but the shutter release is not triggered.

Are there perforators? (The Thingiverse solution)

Many of you ask us about ways to punch the film yourself. There is a well-known project on Thingiverse (the "110 Film Perforator") that uses injection needles.

We tested it and our honest conclusion is: It’s doable but very "hacky." Handling sharp needles in a changing bag is fiddly, and the results are not always clean. Definitely interesting for tinkerers, but rather difficult for a reliable workflow.

Are you working on a solution? Yes. We (Lars and Vladi) are actually tinkering in our workshop on a mechanical perforator that works cleanly and safely. Mechanically, though, it’s quite a tough nut to crack. Until we have it figured out and can offer you a finished device, we recommend the simpler way: the right camera.

Important: Beware of light leaks

Another point when reloading yourself is light tightness. The 110 cassette often uses the backing paper as additional light protection. If you cut film yourself and load it without paper ("naked"), light can enter through the window on the back of the camera.

The expert Bob Janes wrote a helpful article about this on the 35mmc blog ("Perfecting the 110 re-load"). Our recommendation:

• Securely tape over the window on the back of the camera with black tape (electrical tape) just to be safe.
• Alternatively, you can reuse old backing paper if available.

Our system for DIYers

We try to make the process as easy as possible so the 110 format stays alive. We’re not a big company, just two enthusiasts building solutions you can’t buy anywhere else. This is our current workflow:

• Cutting film: With our 110 Film Cutter, you make suitable material from any 16mm film.
• Loading: The film goes into our refillable empty cassettes.
• Developing: To keep handling simple, we use our special development reels (for Jobo or Paterson tanks).
• Scanning: Our film holders ensure the small film lies flat on the scanner.

If you have questions or are unsure if your camera fits, feel free to write us.

Keep 110 alive!
Your Vladi