Problems and Solutions for Power Supply in Analog Cameras

There are hardly any new analog cameras anymore, so most of us want and have to use cameras that are sometimes up to 50 years old. Unfortunately, this also means that the cameras don’t always work reliably. If you have bought and inserted a new battery and/or battery adapter and are having problems with your camera, you can first read here. We have compiled the most common problems and possible solutions for you. If your problem is not listed here or you need further help, feel free to contact us!

Why are batteries advertised as 1.35V (or 1.2V), but the packaging says 1.45V?

Zinc-air batteries have a voltage of 1.45V, which drops to 1.35V under load. The problem with alkaline batteries (1.5V) is not that the voltage is slightly too high, but that it varies greatly over time. New alkaline batteries have about 1.6V and then eventually drop to 1.2V (which distorts the results).

Nickel-metal hydride batteries (NiMh), like the Varta V80H, have 1.2V, which is less than the 1.35V of the previously used PX625 mercury batteries. Generally, a lower voltage is usually less problematic in analog cameras than a too high one, since a lower voltage (in this case only 0.15V) leads to slight overexposure (about 1/3 exposure value - EV), and negative film easily tolerates overexposures of 3-5 EV without it showing up during development or printing. With slide film, 1/3 EV can already be noticeable. So if you use slide film and have problems with under- or overexposed films, you might consider using an expensive adapter with a diode (or even having your camera fitted with a diode to adjust the voltage).

 

Batteries drain within a few hours to days?

Most analog cameras are very energy-efficient, so the batteries we sell should last 2-6 months depending on usage. If the batteries drain within a few hours or days, this indicates that something is wrong with your camera's electronics (old circuits often have issues with so-called “leakage currents”). These leakage currents can usually only be fixed by replacing the electronics, which is extremely complex and rarely economically viable, and also brings the problem that you replace old electronics with other old electronics that sooner or later may develop the same problem. In this case, the easiest solution is to buy another camera. 

Camera doesn’t respond, and the light meter doesn’t move?

 

1. The most common problem - No contact:
   a) First, scrape the contacts free of oxidation residues and old battery fluid with a metallic object like a flathead screwdriver or key, then clean them with distilled water (glass cleaner also helps)
   b) Sometimes the spring of the battery compartment cover doesn’t have enough tension to press the battery against the contact in the camera. In this case, use a screwdriver or something similar to bend the spring slightly. This problem mainly occurs with the Rollei 35 series.
   
2. If none of this helps, your camera might be defective. Check (if available) whether other electronic functions like the self-timer or LEDs in the viewfinder work. If not, the problem might be with your camera. Some mechanical cameras only need the battery for the light meter or flash. If that’s the case, you can simply use your camera with an external light meter (e.g., from Keks, TTArtisans, or ReveniLabs) or a light meter smartphone app.
3. Sometimes the adapter fits into the battery compartment but doesn’t make proper contact with the battery contacts. Check if the contact in your camera’s battery compartment:
   a) Contact is taken from top and bottom (then a simple rubber O-ring adapter also works)
   b) Or whether the contact is taken from the top and one side (then you need an adapter made of conductive plastic or metal)

Camera works with 1.5V or 6V batteries, but not with the supplied 1.35V or 5.6V ones?

Many users are used to using alkaline batteries with a higher voltage than intended for the camera. Depending on the camera, this leads to distorted results in exposure metering (usually overexposure due to too high voltage).
When you then switch to our actually better-suited (because more accurate exposure metering) battery options, sometimes the camera doesn’t work with our batteries even though it does with alkaline batteries.
The reason is usually that the electronics in the camera have aged over time and require more voltage than originally intended to work correctly. In the best case, the two negative effects of too much voltage and old camera electronics cancel each other out so that your exposure measurement more or less fits and you can simply continue using your camera as before. 

Ordered the wrong battery? 

Sometimes, despite careful research, you order the wrong battery and only realize it when you see it doesn't fit into the camera compartment. This is understandable given the overwhelming number of different battery formats.
If this has happened, it is of course no problem. Visit our website www.ausgeknipst.de and click on the magnifying glass icon. Simply type your camera model into the search field (e.g., “Canon AE-1”) and alternatively search the internet for "camera model + battery" or "camera model + manual" and download the manual as a .pdf. Then search the manual for the keyword “battery”.
We now offer a solution for almost all batteries. If you can't find anything, feel free to leave us a message and we will come up with a solution together. 

Light meters show incorrect readings despite fresh batteries?

1. If you use zinc-air hearing aid batteries (type 675 or p312), you should know that they react with air. Therefore, let them sit in the air for 5 minutes before inserting them.

2. Otherwise, it may of course be that the light meter or the electronics of your camera are defective or not set correctly (unfortunately, this is quite common with cameras of this age).
It's best to compare the values with a good light meter (e.g., from a modern SLR or mirrorless camera) and adjust the light meter of your analog camera if necessary using exposure compensation or the ISO dial.

Return and disposal of batteries and accumulators

According to § 18 of the Battery Act, we must inform you as a consumer that you are legally required to dispose of batteries and accumulators properly. Used batteries do not belong in household waste! Batteries containing hazardous substances are marked with a symbol consisting of a crossed-out trash bin and the chemical symbol (Cd, Hg, or Pb) of the heavy metal responsible for the classification as hazardous. You can return them after use to a municipal collection point or local retailer. The accumulators and batteries we sell can also be sent back to us free of charge for environmentally friendly disposal.