Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide
Anyone who knows me knows: the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favorite cameras. At Ausgeknipst we design parts for dozens of camera systems. But to be honest, there is one camera I always put in my bag when I'm out privately. It's not a Leica or a Nikon. It's my beaten-up Minox 35 GT (right in the picture).
Why? Because it is engineering art in pocket format. In 1974 Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photo world with this: a full-frame 35mm camera smaller than many half-frame cameras and even smaller than the already very popular Rollei 35 at the time. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared to the more popular Rollei 35 is: the lens disappears behind a flap when the camera is not in use, protecting it in the bag, and because the body is made of glass-fiber reinforced Makrolon, it weighs almost nothing.
But: The Minox 35 could only be so small because it has a lot of electronics built in for the time, and unfortunately that also makes it quite prone to faults. Of the 100+ Minox 35 cameras that have passed through my hands since the founding of Ausgeknipst, probably about 50% were broken (about 30% of the broken ones we were luckily able to repair, usually only the shutter magnet needs cleaning, see this YouTube video).
But that comes later, first you have to decide on one and this guide is meant for that – so you find the right model and keep it alive.
Part 1: The Minox family tree (Which one should I buy?)
There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here's the overview so you can see through the jungle of names.
1. The classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)
These are the models with the typical sloping top body and the pointer in the viewfinder.
Minox 35 EL (1974): The original mother. Aperture priority (you choose aperture, camera chooses shutter speed). Historically important, but technically still raw (no backlight switch, no self-timer).
Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. Got a backlight switch ("2x") that doubles the exposure. Important feature!
Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favorite. Has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8. Sharp, high contrast, full of character.
Minox 35 PL (1982): The "Program" version. Full auto for people who don't want to think about apertures. Good for snapshots but less creative control.
Warning about power supply: These models originally ran on the mercury battery PX27 (5.6V). It is no longer available.
The solution: Luckily, the Minox 35 has an integrated voltage regulator. That means: The modern 6V from four LR44 or SR44 button cells are electrically no problem. The essential part is the battery adapter (sleeve). The button cells are too small and without an adapter would not make contact and cause a short circuit. Our PX27 adapter takes the modern button cells, connects them correctly, and ensures your Minox gets power reliably again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27, which has less capacity than the solution with four button cells and is often only available in specialty stores.
All info on batteries and manuals can be found here: Minox 35 Battery & Manual Overview
2. The "Automatics" (ML, MB)
From 1985, the design became a bit boxier ("brick shape").
Minox 35 ML: For many the best model. It offers program automation AND shutter priority. Instead of a needle, there are LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an "Exposure Lock" (meter memory) – extremely useful in difficult lighting.
Minox 35 MB: Basically an ML, but without program automation. Only shutter priority.
Advantage of this series: They use the PX28 battery (6V) from the factory. Since this is harder to find nowadays than standard button cells, you need our PX28 adapter. This passive adapter serves as a sleeve to use the smaller, cheaper 4LR44 or 4SR44 button cells.
3. The Modern Ones (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)
At the end of the 80s, there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called "MC Minoxar" (multi-coating) and often had a built-in skylight filter.
Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very mature. Close focusing distance down to 70cm (instead of 90cm). More robust internals (the GT-S is a modified GT-E with automatic DX code recognition).
Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with titanium-anodized aluminum body. More for the showcase, but beautiful (also available as a collector's version in gold-plated (see cover image).
Battery note: The models GT-E and GT-S use the PX27 battery like the classics (EL/GL/GT) and therefore also need the PX27 adapter to use modern 4x LR44/SR44 button cells. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28.
Part 2: Buying guide – The Minox ailments
If you see a used Minox 35 at a flea market or on eBay, you have to check two things. Otherwise, you're buying electronic junk.
The "click" test (shutter)
The biggest problem of the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits unused for a long time, the magnets resinify or the electronics give up.
The test: Insert battery, cock film advance, press shutter release. You hear a "click." But: Open the back and look through the lens against the light. Do the blades really open? Often it clicks (the release magnet), but the shutter stays closed. We used to repair this often, but it's fiddly.
DIY tip: For the technically skilled among you who want to try cleaning the shutter magnet yourself, we have the link to the video tutorial right here: YouTube video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.
The ISO dial of death
On many GTs and GLs, the labeling on the bottom of the ISO dial is simply worn off. You no longer know if you set ISO 100 or 400. It's annoying, but not a total loss.
The solution: We make a replacement plaque for the ISO dial, where the numbers are engraved and not just printed. Stick it on once, and you're done.
The lost battery cover
Classic. These things are tiny and missing on 30% of used cameras. No cover, no circuit. No circuit, no shutter release. If yours is missing: We have replacement covers in our range, printed from conductive filament to ensure electrical contact.
Part 3: How you take better pictures (Zone Focus!)
The Minox 35 is not a point & shoot with autofocus (except the ugly late AF models we don’t talk about here). It has zone focus.
You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It’s not.
- At aperture 8 and setting at 3 meters, almost everything from 2m to 5m is sharp.
- For landscape: infinity.
- For street: aperture 8, pre-focus at 3 meters ("snap-focus") and just shoot when the subject is in the zone.
Since the shutter is almost silent, the Minox is the ultimate ninja camera for street photography.
Our conclusion & Vladis recommendation
Is a Minox 35 still needed today? Yes. There are hardly any cameras that deliver so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT, simply because I always had it with me when the big SLR was too heavy.
My recommendation for buyers:
The best value winner: The Minox 35 GT. Best balance of features and availability.
The pro tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 0.7m minimum focusing distance). The MDC is the only one with a titanium-aluminum body – an indestructible collector's item (but expensive!). The ML does have LEDs in the viewfinder but is not necessarily better in quality than a well-preserved GT.
If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in shape, feel free to check out our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.
Good light! Your Vladi