Kodak Portra in the Pentax 110? Here's how it works (even without perforation)

The selection of fresh 110 pocket film is limited. If you want to use modern material like Kodak Gold, Portra or Ilford HP5 in your pocket camera, you currently often have only one option: do it yourself.

That means: cutting 16mm film (or 35mm leftovers) and loading it into an empty cassette. That’s exactly why we developed our cutters and cassettes. Often the question arises: "The film then has no perforation – does that even work?"

Why do 110 films have perforations at all?

Classic 110 film normally has one perforation hole per frame. This has two important mechanical functions in many cameras:

• Frame spacing: The camera "feels" where the hole is and automatically stops the transport at the right spot.
• Cocking the shutter: A small pin engages in the hole. Without this resistance, some cameras do not cock the shutter. The transport runs through, but the shutter release is not triggered.

Are there perforators? (The Thingiverse solution)

Many of you ask us about ways to punch the film yourself. There is a well-known project on Thingiverse (the "110 Film Perforator") that works with injection needles.

We tested it and our honest conclusion is: it’s doable, but very "hacky". Handling sharp needles in the dark bag is fiddly and the results are not always clean. Certainly exciting for tinkerers, but rather difficult for a reliable workflow.

Are you working on a solution? Yes. We (Lars and Vladi) are actually tinkering in our workshop on a mechanical perforator that works cleanly and safely. Mechanically, however, this is quite a tough nut to crack. Until we have solved it and can offer you a finished device, we recommend the simpler way: the right camera.

The solution today: Choose a camera without "hole requirement"

Many cameras transport the film by friction or fixed distances and also release the shutter without the "hole-sensing mechanism". These are our favorites for unperforated film:

• Pentax Auto 110 & Auto 110 Super (The classic, works very reliably)
• Rollei A110 & E110
• Canon 110ED & 110FD
• Voigtländer Vitoret 110 EL
• Minox 110S (There are different experiences here, mostly it works, but a test is advisable).

The quick self-test for your camera:
Take out the cassette, leave the back open (or press the small switch that simulates "back closed"), cock the lever and press the shutter.
Does it release? Good, it probably also transports unperforated film.
Does it block? Then it definitely requires perforation.

Important: Beware of light leaks

Another point when loading yourself is light tightness. The 110 cassette often uses the backing paper as additional light sealing. If you cut the film yourself and load it without paper ("naked"), light can fall through the window on the back of the camera.

The expert Bob Janes wrote a helpful article about this on the blog 35mmc ("Perfecting the 110 re-load"). Our recommendation:

• Securely tape over the window on the back of the camera with black tape (electrical tape) just to be safe.
• Alternatively, you can reuse old backing paper if available.

Our system for do-it-yourselfers

We try to make the process as easy as possible so that the 110 format stays alive. We are not a big company, but two enthusiasts who build solutions that you can’t buy anywhere else. This is our current workflow:

• Cutting film: With our 110 Film Cutter you make suitable material from any 16mm film.
• Loading: The film goes into our refillable empty cassettes.
• Developing: To keep handling easy, we use our special development reels (for Jobo or Paterson tanks).
• Scanning: Our film holders ensure that the small film lies flat on the scanner.

If you have questions or are unsure if your camera fits, feel free to write to us.

Keep 110 alive!
Your Vladi