Problems and Solutions for Power Supply in Analog Cameras

There are hardly any new analog cameras, so most of us want—and have to—use cameras that may be up to 50 years old. Unfortunately, this also means that cameras do not always work reliably. If you have bought and inserted a new battery and/or battery adapter and are having problems with your camera, you can start by reading this guide. We have compiled the most common problems and possible solutions for you here. If your problem is not listed or you need further assistance, feel free to contact us!

Why are batteries advertised as 1.35 V (or 1.2 V) when the packaging says 1.45 V?

Zinc-air batteries have a voltage of 1.45 V, which drops to 1.35 V under load. The problem with alkaline batteries (1.5 V) is not that their voltage is slightly too high, but that it varies considerably over time. New alkaline batteries have a voltage of around 1.6 V, which eventually drops to 1.2 V—already enough to distort the results.

Nickel-metal hydride batteries (NiMH), such as the Varta V80H, have a voltage of 1.2 V, which is lower than the 1.35 V of the previously used PX625 mercury batteries. Generally speaking, a lower voltage is usually less problematic when used in analog cameras than a voltage that is too high, since a lower voltage—in this case just 0.15 V—causes slight overexposure (around 1/3 exposure value, or EV). Negative film can handle overexposure of 3–5 EV without it being noticeable during development or printing. With slide film, 1/3 EV may already be noticeable. So if you use slide film and have problems with under- or overexposed film, you may want to consider using an expensive adapter with a diode, or even having your camera fitted with a diode to adjust the voltage.

 

Batteries run out within a few hours to a few days?

Most analog cameras are very energy-efficient, so the batteries we sell should last 2–6 months depending on usage. If the batteries run out within a few hours or days, this indicates that something is wrong with your camera’s electronics. Obsolete circuits often have problems with so-called “leakage currents.” These leakage currents can usually only be fixed by replacing the electronics, which is extremely time-consuming and rarely economical. It also means replacing old electronics with other old electronics that may develop the same problem sooner or later. In this case, the easiest solution is to buy another camera. 

Does the camera not respond, and does the light meter not move?

 

1. The most common problem—no contact:
   a) First, scrape the contacts with a metal object such as a flat-head screwdriver or key to remove oxidation residue and old battery fluid, then clean them with distilled water (glass cleaner also works).
   b) Sometimes the battery compartment cover spring does not have enough tension to press the battery against the contact in the camera. In this case, use a screwdriver or something similar to bend the spring slightly. This problem occurs especially with the Rollei 35 series.
   
2. If none of this helps, your camera may be defective. Check, if available, whether other electronic functions such as the self-timer or the LEDs in the viewfinder work. If not, the problem may lie with your camera. Some mechanical cameras need the battery exclusively for the light meter or flash. If that is the case, you can simply use your camera with an external light meter (e.g. from Keks, TTArtisans, or ReveniLabs) or a light meter smartphone app.
3. Sometimes the adapter fits in the battery compartment but does not make proper contact with the battery contacts. Check whether the contact in your camera’s battery compartment:
   a) Whether contact is made at the top and bottom (in which case a simple rubber O-ring adapter will also work)
   b) Or whether contact is made at the top and on one side (in which case you need an adapter made of conductive plastic or metal)

Does the camera work with 1.5V or 6V batteries, but not with the supplied 1.35V or 5.6V batteries?

Many users are accustomed to using alkaline batteries with a higher voltage than specified for the camera. Depending on the camera, this leads to distorted exposure-meter readings (usually overexposure due to the excessive voltage).
When they then switch to our actually more suitable battery options (because of their more accurate exposure metering), it sometimes happens that the camera does not work with our batteries, even though it does with alkaline batteries.
This is usually because the camera’s electronics have aged over time and require more voltage than originally intended to operate correctly. In the best-case scenario, the two negative effects of too much voltage and old camera electronics cancel each other out, so your light meter readings are more or less accurate and you can simply continue using your camera as before. 

Ordered the wrong battery? 

Sometimes, despite careful research, you may order the wrong battery and only notice when you see that it doesn’t fit in the battery compartment. This is understandable given the overwhelming number of different battery formats.
If this has happened, it’s of course no problem. Visit our website www.ausgeknipst.de and click the magnifying glass icon. Simply enter your camera model in the search field (e.g. “Canon AE-1”), or alternatively search online for “camera model + battery” or “camera model + instructions/manual” and download the instructions as a .pdf. Then search the instructions for the keyword “battery”.
We now offer a solution for almost all batteries. If you can’t find what you need, feel free to leave us a message and we’ll work with you to find a solution. 

Are light meters showing incorrect readings despite fresh batteries?

1. If you use zinc-air hearing aid batteries (type 675 or p312), you should know that they react with air. Therefore, leave them exposed to the air for 5 minutes before inserting them.

2. Otherwise, it may of course be that your camera’s light meter or electronics are defective or incorrectly adjusted (unfortunately, this is relatively common given the age of the cameras).
It’s best to compare the readings with a good light meter (e.g. one from a modern SLR or mirrorless camera) and, if necessary, adjust your analog camera’s light meter using exposure compensation or the ISO dial.

Return and disposal of batteries and rechargeable batteries

Under Section 18 of the German Battery Act, we are legally required to inform you as a consumer that you are obligated to dispose of batteries and rechargeable batteries properly. Used batteries must not be disposed of with household waste! Batteries containing hazardous substances are marked with a crossed-out wheelie bin and the chemical symbol (Cd, Hg, or Pb) of the heavy metal that determines their classification as hazardous. After use, you can return them to a municipal collection point or a local retailer. You can also send the rechargeable batteries and batteries we sell back to us free of charge for environmentally friendly disposal.