Problems and solutions with the power supply of analog cameras

There are hardly any new analog cameras left, which is why most of us want and need to use cameras that are sometimes up to 50 years old. Unfortunately, this also means that the cameras do not always function reliably. If you have purchased and inserted a new battery and/or a battery adapter and are having problems with your camera, you can first read here. We have compiled the most common problems and possible solutions for you. If your problem is not listed here or if you need further assistance, feel free to contact us!

Why are batteries advertised with 1.35V (or 1.2V), but the packaging states 1.45V?

Zinc-air batteries have a voltage of 1.45V, which drops to 1.35V under load. The problem with alkaline batteries (1.5V) is not that the voltage is slightly too high, but that it varies greatly over time. The voltage of new alkaline batteries is about 1.6V and then eventually drops to 1.2V (which distorts the results).

Nickel-metal hydride batteries (NiMh) such as the Varta V80H have 1.2V, which is less than the 1.35V of the previously used PX625 mercury batteries. Generally, it should be noted that a lower voltage is usually less problematic when used in analog cameras than a too high one, as a lower voltage (in this case only 0.15V) leads to a slight overexposure (about 1/3 exposure values - EV) and negative film can easily tolerate overexposures of 3-5 EV without it being noticeable during development or printing. With slide film, 1/3 EV can already be noticeable. Therefore, those who use slide film and have issues with under- or overexposed films may consider using an expensive adapter with a diode (or even having their camera equipped with a diode to adjust the voltage).

 

Batteries discharge within a few hours to days?

Most analog cameras are very energy-efficient, so the batteries we sell should last 2-6 months depending on usage. If the batteries drain within a few hours or days, this is an indication that something is wrong with your camera's electronics (outdated circuits often have issues with so-called "leakage currents"). These leakage currents can usually only be fixed by replacing the electronics, which is both extremely labor-intensive and rarely economically viable, and also brings the problem that you are replacing old electronics with another set of old electronics that may develop the same issue sooner or later. In this case, it is easiest to buy another camera. 

Camera is not responding, and the exposure meter is not moving?

 

1. The most common problem - No contact:
   a) First, scratch the contacts with a metallic object such as a flat screwdriver or key to remove oxidation residues and old battery fluid, and then clean them with distilled water (glass cleaner also helps)
   b) Sometimes the spring of the battery compartment cover does not have enough tension to press the battery against the contact in the camera. In this case, use a screwdriver or something similar to bend the spring a little. This problem occurs mainly with the Rollei 35 series.
   
2. If none of this helps, your camera may be defective. Check (if available) whether other electronic functions like the self-timer or the LEDs in the viewfinder are working. If not, the problem may lie with your camera. Some mechanical cameras only require the battery for the exposure meter or the flash. If that's the case, you can also simply use your camera with an external exposure meter (e.g. from Keks, TTArtisans, or ReveniLabs) or a light meter smartphone app.
3. Sometimes the adapter fits into the battery compartment, but does not make proper contact with the battery contacts. Check if the contact in your camera's battery compartment:
   a) Gripped from above and below (then a simple rubber O-ring adapter will also work)
   b) Or whether the contact at the top and one on the side is being tapped (then you need an adapter made of conductive plastic or metal)

The camera works with 1.5V or 6V batteries, but not with the supplied 1.35V or 5.6V?

Many users are accustomed to using alkaline batteries with a higher voltage than intended for the camera. This can lead to distorted results in exposure measurement (usually overexposure due to too high voltage) depending on the camera.
When they then resort to our actually better-suited (because more accurate exposure measurement) battery options, it sometimes happens that the camera does not work with our batteries, although it does with the alkaline batteries.
The reason for this is usually that the electronics in the camera have aged over time and require more voltage than originally intended to function correctly. In the best case, the two negative effects of too much voltage and old camera electronics cancel each other out so that your exposure measurement is more or less accurate, and you can continue to use your camera just as before. 

Wrong battery ordered? 

Sometimes, despite careful research, it happens that you order the wrong battery and only realize it when you see that it doesn't fit in the camera compartment. This is understandable given the overwhelming number of different battery formats.
If this has happened, then it is of course no problem. Visit our website www.ausgeknipst.de and click on the magnifying glass icon. Simply type your camera model into the search field (e.g. "Canon AE-1") and alternatively search the internet for "camera model + battery" or "camera model + manual" and download the manual as a .pdf. Then search for the keyword "battery" in the manual.
We now have a solution available for almost all batteries. If you can't find anything, feel free to leave us a message and we will come up with a solution together. 

Exposure meters show incorrect results despite fresh batteries?

1. If you are using zinc-air hearing aid batteries (type 675 or p312), you need to know that they react with air. Therefore, let them sit in the air for 5 minutes before inserting them.

2. Otherwise, it may of course be that the light meter or the electronics of your camera are defective or not properly adjusted (unfortunately, this is relatively common given the age of the cameras).
Compare the values best with a good light meter (e.g. from a modern DSLR or system camera) and adjust the light meter of your analog camera if necessary using exposure compensation or ISO selection dial.

Return and disposal of batteries and accumulators

According to § 18 Battery Act, we are obliged to inform you as a consumer that you are legally required to dispose of batteries and accumulators properly. Used batteries do not belong in household waste! Hazardous batteries are marked with a symbol consisting of a crossed-out trash can and the chemical symbol (Cd, Hg, or Pb) of the heavy metal that determines their classification as hazardous. You can return them after use at a municipal collection point or at local retailers. The batteries and accumulators we sell can also be returned to us free of charge for environmentally friendly disposal.